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So I re-read Fletchers post aagain...

So a nail plate is used where the the cable/conduit passed through a top/sole plate or stud?

It acts a aprotector so an installer can't drive a nail into the stud in a location where there is a hole and a wire in the stud. However. if the hole is less than 1.25" from the stud face it is not required. (front and back face)

Is that correct?

That is why Fletcher states that a 3" plastic conduit would require nailplate. Being that it only allows for 1" of clearance to the stud face. Even if center perfectly.

Correct?

So basicly I think I am in good shape. Use CMR rated cable, Use electrical conduit, not white pvc, Low voltage boxs are ok. Use firestopping caulk at top/soleplates, and firestop the 3" conduit at the openings with "putty".

Thanks again you all for the great help. I am probably more adventurous when it come to this stuff than most people. But with help like this I think I am in good hands.

So if I am wrong about any thing let me know before I hold up my construction because it dosn't pass code.

I would second the recommendation to go to several smaller conduits.. A single 3" may be fine for now, but if you want to expand in the future, it's a lot easier if you have a spare conduit or two to work with.

I would run at least three conduits, and leave at least one as a spare.

I agree that cat6 is overkill.. cat5e for data, and cat3 for phone is more than adequate. I tend to put at least two data jacks in each location, or 4 if I anticipate having two connections initially.

I agree with Ev about piping everything. it's worth it in the long run. Even if you don't anticipate putting a jack in that location, put a box and pipe so you can add one later.

I disagree with Hal on the coax patch panel. It's your house, and you have the right to make it conform to your standards. Do it right, use proper compression (snap-n-seal type) connectors, and make it clean. Any cable guy who whacks ends off my properly terminated cables is going to get a nasty call to his boss, and a bill for damages.

In fact, don't let the cable guy work on your wiring. Have him bring in his drop, and mount it where you specify, and take it from there. The cable guy will take the quickest route, and won't care how much of a mess he leaves you, how much space he takes, or how much of a pain he makes your life after he leaves.

Keep the phone, data, and coax terminal separate. It helps keep the overall clutter down.

Use a proper backboard, not one of these all-in-one panels that the builders are fond of, but that you will hate as soon as you try to work in it.

How do you keep a bare coax or cat6 cable at least 1.25" from the stud face? Stud face being the face of the stud the drywall is screwed to? That seams impossible when the wire is dangling from the topplate all the way to the box.

You don't dangle it unless you want it caught between the sheetrock and studs when the sheetrock is installed. You should be doing this after the electrician so look to see how he fastens his cables and do the same.

-Hal

I am going with the Cat6 to ready myself for the future. I anticipate 10gig to be coming around while I am living at this home and want to be ready for it. Thats the reason for the Cat6. I have worked with it before and do realize it is a little more of a pain to work with.

I am not sure if I can switch the conduit size at this point. I guess I can see if I can get two 2" instead for the same price. My delema comes from the fact that they will charge me a "change order fee" if I make any adjustments to things at this stage. (They just got done rough framing)

The plan is 2 cat6 and 1 coax to each box. I never thought about the smurf tube before. So I am still thinking about that. I think I would need quite alot as I ahve about 20 boxs.

The patch panels are std "high density", 48 ports in 2U space. I have a 42u chatsworth rack I am installing the patchs in. Roughly I will have 16 runs of coax going to it. I am placing the coax patch at the top. skipping 4-6Us down will be the cat6 patch.

You can bet I won't be letting Time Warner touch my stuff.

Nobody said anything about my interpretation of a nail plate, so I guess it is correct then???

Mostly correct and correct: "However. if the hole is less than 1.25" from the stud face it is not required". If the hole is greater than 1.25" from the stud face, nailplates are not required.

Conduits must be firestopped inside and out - that is, use caulk between the conduit and the framing, and between conduit and the cabling.

Cables can be secured to the studs by using insulated coax staples, which will also work on cat6. If you go with ENT, it must be secured every 3' per NEC 362.30A.

Jack

You can bet I won't be letting Time Warner touch my stuff.

While you do own your cabling the cable company is responsible for it. CATV is a lot more complex than most people realize and most DIY "projects" result in problems because of improper design and materials. Ingress is the most critical problem because it can shut down dozens of other customers who happen to share the same optical node with you. Then there is leakage and improper return signal levels.

Like I said, you own your wiring but if you cause any problems the cable company will disconect you unless you permit them to eliminate them. And I doubt many people have the test equipment or the knowledge to do it themselves. I suppose if they did they wouldn't have those problems to begin with.

-Hal

Just FYI but for Residential the minimum recommended cable type is Cat5e for both voice and data. Cable is cheap and going with Cat 3 anywhere in your home wouldnt make sense to me. Id run Cat5e and if the budget allowed Cat6. Just because you run Cat 6 doesnt mean you have to use all Cat 6 rated components at this time. You might start out with Cat5e components which are much cheaper and in the future if the need arises then you can swap out jacks and patch panels. But at least the cabling itself would be in place and if there was any area where you might need to convert a voice jack to data then youd be all set as the proper cable is allready in place.

Tito can you bring up that recommendation? I have looked all over the Texas codes and can't find it So that may be an Arkansas thing. Or maybe a local code for your area.

I would hate to mislead someone with information like that. Especially if it were to cost the customer more money than necessary.

**i could be wrong i have been before**

I know that BICCSI had suggested that residential installations now fall under 568, but that was in no way mandatory. I can assure you that no residential builders in this area are abiding by this guideline.

I have not heard of any AHJ mandating the type of cable or hardware that can be installed. All they care about are NEC requirements with regard to cable jacket ratings, fire-rated structure penetrations and proper firestopping.