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Quote
Originally posted by Arthur P. Bloom:
Matt, I'll contact you in a few days to talk about the 1A2 stuff.

No, that's not the right meter. I'll see if I have a spare to give you. They require a weird 45 volt battery, available but expensive, but 5, nine-volt battries in series is the field expedient.
Cool - I've got a great place to start using it. I just punched down my cuckoo clock, and for some reason line 4 is lit brightly on all phones, except the clock, which is very dimly lit. The LED on the line card is lit... for some reason it thinks it's off hook. I pulled the line card for now. So I guess a short between A/A1 somewhere on line 4..... but I think it will be an excellent way for you to help walk me through both using the meter and also avoiding the guessing and parts swapping game.

Thanks
Matt

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Matt, knee-jerk reaction to your newest problem. You've x-connected like its a 5 button phone, on a 10 button phone block! John C. (Not Garand)


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Matt -

The line steadily lit is, as you guessed, probably a short on line 4s A/A1 pair. Troubleshoot this by lifting A leads one at a time till the lamp goes out. That set is causing your problem. Then find out why. Swap that set out with a known good set to see if it's a cable problem or a set problem.

If the lamps are bright on most phones and dim on one set, that set probably has the L & LG leads reversed. Check to see if it's a xconnect, cable or station problem.

Sam


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Sam/Lightning -

It's even worse than that.

The first thing I did was try another station, with the same results, so I knew the cuckoo clock was OK.

When I put the system in, I punched down about 7 or 8 stations, but only used 5 of them.

As luck would have it, for the cuckoo clock I picked the one station cable that had been cross connected... umm... wrong.

I'm a bit embarresed to go into the details, but what the h... suffice to say I had my A/A1 and L/LG cross connects reversed.

Basically A/A1 from the KSU were going to the stations L/LG, and KSU L/LG were going to the stations A/A1. Why that didn't cause smoke... I don't know.

Basically I got 2 pairs of cross connects wrong... Ed drilled it into my head: Wh/Blu, Blu/wh, W/Or, Or/Wh, Wh/Gr, Gr/Wh for the xconnects. But on this particular drop I had revered the Orange pair with the Green pair on the cross connects. Didn't take long to find it.

I don't understand how hooking A/A1 from the deskset to L/LG of the KSU wouldn't at least blow a fuse, since it seems to me that's a 10v dead short when you pick up the reciever.... maybe you guys can offer up some possibilities.

Anyway, I made the cross connects for line 4 the same as every other set... it's all good now. And I inspected every other cross connect. All good.

Thanks guys!

:bang:

- Matt

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Arthur P. Bloom
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Arthur -

I want it for the looks/coolness factor, but is it just an ohmmeter? With 45V in it, I've got to think it does something a normal VOM does not.

I've got a digital VOM.... use it all the time with the 1A2 and many other things around the house/car. Again, very cool item, but if it's an ohmmeter I need, I like the one I've got... nice big LCD display (my eyes ain't what they once were), plus it's got swappable probes/clips on the leads.

But, I went ahead and threw a bid in. It's old, I'm old, my phone system is old... we all get along just great.

Thanks
Matt

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"I don't understand how hooking A/A1 from the deskset to L/LG of the KSU wouldn't at least blow a fuse, since it seems to me that's a 10v dead short when you pick up the reciever.... maybe you guys can offer up some possibilities."
Matt, because it's a 1A2! Among other things, the 22/24 gauge wire helps limit current flow. 1A2's are damnear bullet proof! If you want a phone system that will ALWAYS work, make it a 1A2. No bells or whistles, but they will survive just about anything but a lightning strike on the chassis!

And you'll find that an analog VOM comes in handy when you are trying to see those 'kicks'. A digital meter, that samples continuosly, will probably never see the 'kick' and if it does, it'll only show it to you for a second or so.

Digital meters have their uses. One is put it on AC, measure across a DC source, and get the ripple voltage. Analog usually gives a 'kick' and then nothing. John C. (Not Garand)


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Reversing the A/A1 and LG/L would only cause the lamp to try to short the A/A1 leads, but the resistance would likely not be enough to close the relay and energize the LG/L. If it did, then YES, going off-hook on that line would blow the fuse since your phone's A-lead contacts would place a dead short across the line's lamp circuit.

Oh and the reason for the funky 45 volt battery in the KS meter is to simulate the voltage of a standard CO line for testing and "kicking" the cable pair. A standard meter might work fine for on-premise wiring issues where cable runs are relatively short, but when working on CO line issues where pairs may be miles-long, you need the added horsepower to provide accurate measurements.


Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Cool, cool - thanks lightning! And I agree with your assesment - this thing IS bullet proof. Or in lieu of a gun, I'd use one of these desksets as a defense mechanism any day of the week.

Thanks for the tips on the analog meter - we'll see if I win the bid. I havn't used an analog meter since I was 8 or 9, should be fun.

Thanks again -
Matt

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Wow, all of us in one thread at the same time - thanks for the additional tips, Ed! With your guys responses, now I know why not even a whiff of magic smoke came out.

Thanks again -
Matt

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