atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Static on POTS lines

After doing all that, when she used her CORDED phone, she had no more noise or static.

So am I. I thought you just said that she didn't know what she was talking about and you determined that the static was on the CORDLESS phone only because of the RFI.

If what you replaced was the service grounding electrode (and there needs to be two spaced 6 feet apart) there should be a #6 from them to the ground bus in the service panel where it connects to the neutral from the service drop and meter. I have no idea what you are talking about with using clamps other than another ground from the same ground bus in the panel to bond the cold water piping by jumping the water meter. I doubt what you have is proper. Even so, the grounding electrode serves no purpose other than providing some protection from lightning strikes. That's because there is no way you are going to get a low resistance to earth so whatever your Sidekick indicated I would ignore.

I would have a licensed electrician take a look at the service before the house burns down.

-Hal

the original problem was due to the grounding issue.

Here in Springfield, (Mo) they only require 1 ground rod, 8 foot deep for residential electrical service. The conductor is No.8 to the rod.

as far as clamps, you don't just wrap the wire around the rod, you need a firm connection to it, therefore a ground rod clamp is used.

The grounding system is more than just lightning protection, it also supplies a path for fault currents to safely dissipate, such as if a hot conductor was to contact the steel case of an appliance, it would divert that current to the ground instead of through the user.
Article 250 of the National Electrical Code covers grounding and bonding in more detail.

The original problem was due to faulty grounding of the electrical service.
After correcting that issue, she later told me she was still having problems with static, hence the reason I posted here.

It turns out the REMAINING problems were due to RFI over the cordless telephone. (As verified with a spectrum analyzer)

She has noticed a big improvement in call quality since I replaced the ground electrode.
As far as safety, a properly installed ground rod is far better than a plain steel rusty rod of inadequate length.

Any more comments are appreciated, and I thank everyone who has given their advice and help.

I will leave this topic open for now, but will close it tomorrow (Monday) evening, as I am confident the problem is now fixed.

Thanks again! Will

You're barking up the wrong tree with your assumptions. I'm also an electrical contractor.

-Hal

I'd like to see you manage that. Only Mods (of a given forum) and admins can close a topic. :read:

If you're smart, you'd listen to Hal. He KNOWS what he's talking about. A very knowledgeable & well respected member of this board.

I hope you never have to rely on a ground rod to clear a fault, the earth is a very bad conductor and you would be lucky if a rod (or even 2) could clear even a 15A fault. It's the neutral to ground bond that clears faults.

The Code many years ago only required one 8' driven rod. I can't remember what Code cycle started requiring two spaced at least 6 feet apart. The current Code recognizes that driven rods are almost useless and requires that all new construction use a Ufer ground that utilizes the concrete building footings.

Yes, it's the service drop neutral to ground bond in the panel followed by the connection of it in every building to the public water system- hence the ground bond to the water meters. The water system piping then effectively becomes a parallel neutral to every building. Unfortunately the metallic piping is sometimes repaired or replaced with plastic these days and of course if you are on a well that option doesn't exist. If that's the case and you lose your service neutral expect to lose a lot of your appliances and electronics.

-Hal

Ok, I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes or claim I know more than anyone else, I will admit I don't know it all. Then again, who does know EVERYTHING. If I have come off as arrogant, I apologize.

There is an icon at the bottom of the page that says "close topic" that is what i was referring to, didn't know it was for admins only.

Basically, here's how it is at my friend's house:
The electrical service panel (meter panel) is at the back of the house, the breaker panel is next to it. (also outside). the bare copper ground wire coming from the meter box is inside a conduit. that wire is connected directly to the ground rod and a cold water spigot. the cable tv and telephone demarc grounds are clamped to the #8 copper lead with split bolt connectors.

As far as grounding to the foundation rebar, I've seen this done on new houses, but they always leave a piece of rebar protruding just for this purpose. No such connection is possible in this case, as there is no exposed rebar.

Do I need to drive a second rod 6 foot away from the original?
I'm looking for the safest option, and cheapest, as my friend is at poverty level income and couldn't afford for an electrician to come and install something. I'm only charging her for materials and doing the rest for free.

I want to do this correctly and safely, as I can't stand shoddy work, especially when it comes to electrical safety.

Hal, What would you recommend I do?

Once again, I am not trying to second guess any of you, you obviously know what your doing, and have been doing it longer than myself.

-Will

Back years ago 1 rod complyed with code, since the rod offers almost no electrical advantage except lightning protection I would leave it alone.

The current code still allows a single rod if it's restance is (I think) 10 ohms or less to earth if it is not it requires 2 rods. Only problem with the 10 ohm rule is it requires a tester that costs big $ so most today just drive 2 rods (no testing required) and call it done.

I've seen those testers that measure the resistance of ground rods. Looks like a clamp on ammeter. I saw one in a catalog for about $800+.
Compared to a $15 ground rod, that's a lot to spend for a tool that I would only use occasionally.

So driving a second rod 6' from the first is the best solution to meet current code? If so, I'll go with that.

Static comes from circuit noise on the pair. I have never seen a ground rod fix circuit noise. Ever. I'm glad its fixed....but I would monitor for awhile and see if the issue re-appears.