atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Terminate on what in residential in BC canada?

All my background has been in commercial. So, I am sending out work to electricians that need a data guy. Problem is, some of them do residential work. I have not done any residential work before. I imagine it is easier then commercial IF, it is new construction and the wall board is not up yet.

What do data guys use to terminate the voice cabeling with in houses? I would think that bix is a little over kill. Secondly, I imagine the termination is in a walk in closet where it comes in though the floor? Or maybe just a junction box with beanies. With home theater and smart homes being built, I imagine it would be something on the order of a bix wafer.

Thanks

For voice just use a square QBB1A (or B) connecting block with screw terminals, unless it's a really large residence, in which case I use BIX Definitely BIX if there is a system involved.

Don't use beanies. Makes it harder to trouble shoot.

I do commercial and residential wiring however I'm a looooonnnngg way from BC. With that said, I would look long and hard before jumping into residential. Commercial wiring to me is much easier than residential and commercial customers are "more" likely to understand the expense of wiring. Residential customers always want the walls fished etc. but are not always understanding with the costs etc. On another note, if you do a good job you keep your commercial customers and you work on "your" wiring instead of always working behind someone else in residential. Unless you're like me, a rural area where if you don't do it all you don't eat. Then you do whatever you can.

As far as the connections. I just regular 4p4c wall plates unless there is data also run (which I always suggest). in that case, I use keystone inserts for both voice and data. And for the termination point, I NEVER use junction box to house my connections. I bring all of my wires to a central place near where the alarm system with terminate. As a last resort I make my connections in the attic (we don't have basements) but they are always accessible. I punch all voice wires down on a 66 block (they're cheap) and find that its much neater and faster than beanies. Then its also set up for any future changes that could be made. Again, I never place these in a JB. Thats the things you find in residential work and the JB is always located behind some piece of furniture that you can't get to. Good luck.

I use 66 blocks also...I know Dave and the guys from Canada don't like them
A lot of new homes have those smart wiring panels which have a module for phone that terminates on 110. Not sure if they use those in your neck of the woods though.
Give me a space to install a nice backboard to mount everything (phone, data, video) on and I am happy!

Jeff...as a short reply and not to distract from the original post.. No, structured wiring etc is not real common here. I do come across the panels that connect 110 however it normally with large PBX's. yes, you hit it right...give me space, I'll provide my OWN backboard and I'll be happy also.. good day! PS-- I believe the smart wiring panels are a bit (no alot) pricey for what you get. Call me someone who doeens't want to give up the old way but I don't see the benefits versus the expense.

They're also junk in my opinion. If you insist on using a "block" for residential, stick with BIX. 66 Blocks are soooooo passé in Canada.

Yes, home runs are always best, just like commercial, but I couldn't care less where the alarm panel is. Run them back to a spot near the D-Marc. If it's outside, run ONE wire inside then go from there with your connections.

Hey Dave, my only point with making terminations at the alarm panel is where all involved equipment is centrally located which makes cross connects and troubleshooting a little easier....you also have electricity there for the future. Just a preference. However if the panel isn't convenienty located I do my own thing......as far as Bix, not going there....but if I lived in Canada I'd surely use Bix ....I'd be afraid not to, 66 block equals death by hanging.... just joking....good day!

In new house construction, we treat the installation exactly the same as a small industrial or business job.

All voice, data, TV, alarm wires are home runs, and all go to the same place. Feeder wires go from wherever the utilities bring their circuits into the building to our backboard. We specify a minimum of a 4 x 8 sheet pf plywood, furred out so that wires can be passed behind the board.

We specify a 15 amp dedicated receptical for us, and one for the alarm panel.

We have a policy about the Leviton whole house boxes: whenever we see one, we throw it out and rewire the system in a sane and orderly way. Thank God for Leviton. Without their ill-conceived and bizarre equipment, I would never have been able to stay in business this long.

We terminate all data wires on one or more 12-port panels (same footprint as a 66 M block).

All voice wires on 66M50 blocks, for ease in cross connecting and trouble-shooting.

**WE** run the alarm feed wire, so it's run neatly, correctly, using the correct wire type, and not otherwise f'd up. We leave it with a tag at the alarm panel.

Everything is terminated on ICC brand keystone jacks at the far end.

We install a shelf for the modem, router, UPS etc to sit on. When building the shelf leave an inch space behind it so that patch cords and power cords can hang down out of the way.

Around here that f/n panel could be hidden anywhere, even in attics (supposedly so a burglar can't find it).

Thanks for the information. Now as for routing the wire to each drop, is it fed though holes drilled in the center of the studs or for example on the center of the walls top plate ?

Personally, would also avoid residential. Warranted issues would scare me if something happened to the wire in the walls. Would be very expensive to replace it since it is behind sheet rock. Perhaps if the wire was in the attic and fed down a hole in the walls top plate, would not be so expensive to replace if something happened.

BTW, what is the typical length of time for a warranted on commercial and residential wire installation?