atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums TDM Business Telephone Systems Avaya - Lucent Telephones & Systems Continuing ACS Hook Switch Problems

I've done a search on this topic and found many references to this problem, but none with in the field solutions. So here is a partial solution!

The problem is hook switches being bad, many out of the box, on the ACS Euro style phones. I only have the original style phones installed with most of those being 18Ds. I have no experience with the newer second version.

A) In the past I have had dozens of problems with the "Hook Switch" being lethargic coming up after lifting the handset. I simply ask the user to verify the problem by manually lifting the hook switch plunger with their fingers and if the call is connected great, I know the fix. The fix I have used is simple - just increase the tension on the hook switch spring inside the phone. I do this by either torqueing the spring or repositioning an end to provide "more spring".

Now for my question:
B) Yesterday I ran into a different problem with an 18D hook switch, the phone is about three years old. I couldn't get it to hang up, i.e. it was always off hook. An inspection of the hook switch revealed what I thought was a lot of play in the plastic mechanism and the "button" push part was not loosing contact with the flexible membrain. This I believe allows the carbon button to remain in contact with the PCB traces. I cleaned the carbon button and traces and the problem got worse. It is then that I noticed what seems like abnormal play in the plastic mechanism. I will be examing more phones in the future to confirm the play issue.

Anybody out there with the similar problems? With any field solutions!

Increasing the spring tension is a known fix. I have occasionally completely disassembled phones to refurb them when something was spilled on them (easy fix) and the customer thinks they got back a new phone. Usually though I wouldn't play with them. A new one is in both our best interests.

This creates a stock of parts which I do use to assemble complete working phones which I use in loaner systems or systems that I donate to churches and other needy organizations. I wouldn't sell them.

So if I had your problem I would compare the phone to other phones that work and see what the problem is then swap the parts or case plastic. Parts for the original Eurostyle and MLS phones are readily available.

I believe the 34D continues to use an opto switch rather than that arm pushing a button.

-Hal

Switch hook and miss-dials have been a huge problem for us with the new style euros.
Before the series II phones my hair was black...............now it is gray. Go figure.

I think thats age Mike

Oh, is that what it is? :rofl:

I have found another solution to the "lethargic switchook" issue on Euro II 18-button phones. In the phones where I've had trouble, I found, when the phone taken apart, that the switchook worked great. With a bit of luck, I found the switchook mechanism was rubbing against one of the interior molded plastic "stand-offs". Shave a fraction off with utility knife, put phone back together, and works like a champ. The guilty stand-off is the widest one - near the display. Shave off the side that would be closest to the switchook. Total fix time is five minutes per phone. Has fixed every "lethargic switchook" issue thus far.
Mike

Michael,
I'm still trying to use the older style phones - my distributor can still get them or has a huge stockpile. From what I hear about the problems with the new style I'm pleased they still have them available. They have conferred the same problems to me that you are having and becoming quite upset. Hopefully the problems will be fixed by the time I "HAVE" to use the newer style! Sorry to hear about your grey hair!!

Mforrence, Need clarification!
Not quite sure if you are truly referring to my first question with the "lethargic" hook switch, where it just won't come all the way up OR my second problem with the hook switch never actually going "on hook" when the handset is placed back in it's cradle?

Also, the standoff referred to - is it on the bottom half(base)of the phone or the top half(buttons) of the phone. My assumption is the bottom half, but I am beginning to see the relationship between all the points of contact with the stand-offs in the base with the PCB to hold it in position, thanks!

Trivia:
I don't mean to hijack my own post, but I know how you guys like to argue!!
Is it Hook Switch, Hookswitch, Switchhook or Switchook???
I just looked in an old BSP and it uses "line switch".

Rick

Mforrence,
I didn't read your post correctly - you were talking about the new Euro II style phones. Mine are the older first style.

Rick

I have always know it as switchhook.
That's like the # sign on the dial pad.................I have always know it as pound, but now Avaya's new term for it in the IPO world is hash. I always thought hash was something some people smoked.

Switch Hook is what you hang the receiver (before handsets) on.

Hook Switch is what actuates when you hang up the receiver.

Before the patent expired on the automatic switch, companies such as "Viaduct" came up with "Paddle Phones" - instead of a moving hook actuating a switch for the receiver, there was a stationary for parking the receiver, and a lever to rest your elbow on while talking. The switch worked in reverse. When you removed your elbow, the switch broke to connection.


Hash is the British term for the Pound Key - also known as the "octothorpe". Mike - if you have a Partner Mail VS, R4, check the available system languages. One of the options is "British English", and she calls the # "hash" - I really dig her voice, and had my home voice mail set to that at one time!!

Sorry, hijack over!! I've also tried strengthing the springs on the Euro II's but they always failed again. I'm going to have to look at mforrence's solution