Finally managed to hook up a nice 4A speakerphone set from 1976 to my 2565 desk set and a vintage 107A loudspeaker from 1973 to a 564 set. All works!
Just wanted to share with those having nostalgy from golden age of 1A2 in business communications.
This is my favourite instrument - black WE 564. Refurbished in 1983 and no original date is available since metal base was painted black (which normally happend to very old sets). Based on parts inside I may assume it comes from 1956. Wires from the network to the ringer are in fabric insulation, so also shows that it is from early production.
Plan to equip 564 station with a TT adjunct, have not connected it yet - there is no BSP for 1035 adjunct connection to 564 sets. Don't look on Cisco 7960 in the background - this is nothing in comparison with WECO stuff.
108A works well. This should be from one of the first production year of 4A speakerphone. Transmitter says 680A and loudspeaker is 108A so without static discharge protection. If by chance anybody knows parameters of "106A varistor" to install into 108A for static discharge protection (mentioned in the 'new' BSP for 4A speakerphone as shippded with each transmitter for repair), I would appreciate that for finding an available equivalent to upgrade my 108A. Hooked it up to the black WE 2565 from 1978 (refurbished in 1981).
Important - I only collect stuff that can be used. So since I've connected the 4A speakerphone over this weekend - I have already conducted today 3-4 long conference calls with it. And results are perfect. Don't know how it is for another party - but for me sound is really different from any of modern speakerphone due to more low-frequency (bass) component of sound. Most of modern IP Phones use negligible loudspeaker and the weight is way too low as well - so even if allowed, low frequencies will make the whole thing vibrating. With 108A weight and size of loudspeaker low component is possible. Difference is obvious even with 107A Spokesman.
Not without troubles - origially I connected both 4A speakerphone and 107A louspeaker to an external transformer to get 18 VAC. Both worked well for a few hours till in the evening 4A speakerphone died completely. Have had to dig inside and troubleshoot - integrated diod bridge in 108A failed. I believe this is because of transformer's starting impulse - haven't put any protection against this. So have to remove the bridge and solder AC input directly to DC output of the bridge. Of course changing the power supply for both 4A and 107A from AC to a good rectified DC source with polarity control for repaired 108A. Now hope with this modification trouble will not repeat itself. If somebody decides to repair 108A loudspeaker - be careful with flexible circuits - that was an experimental design from Bell Labs - these are not really flexible PCBs. Over time metal conductors on them start cracking and any movement may brake them with almost no chances to repair. So avoid opening it "just for curiosity".
Some of my other items from collection related to 1A2 (mostly) and WECO:
This one is newer from ITT. Came as NOS from the US. Manufacture date says April 1980. Nice Beige 564 instrument. 107A Spokesman was in awfull condition - have to repolish it completely to remove faded out plastic. Interesting enough under 0.2-0.3 mm of deteriourated plastic the colour was still like new. Only embossed WE logo on the rare side can say the difference.
This is original green Western Electric 564HL from April 1973. Was kept somewhere here in Germany and came to me with broken dial spring and contacts and lost spring in pick up buttons block. Have had to do some mechanical repair, but now it's Ok. Really like this combination of 564/565 sets with matching colour 107A loudspeakers - that was a great design. Have no use yet to 4-button external signalling keys blocks - will figure out how to employ those.
Another new set from May 1984 (almost the same age as I) also from ITT - Beige 2564.
And the Ivory ITT 2565 from November 1984. This matches perfectly with the furniture in bedroom - so I just left it there.
If you would only know how difficult (and expensive) it is to get this stuff here on the other side of the pond...
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Do you have the sets ringing? I seem to remember installing a T&N (Telefonbau und Normalzeit?) PAX board and the ringing was 60 hz , not the 20-30 hz we use here in the States...
A nice collection!
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
I use them on swiss-made PBX (Ascom) and ringers work well. Actually frequency should not be a problem - Europe uses 25 Hz ringer instead of 30 Hz in the US (half of power net frequency). But ringer voltage in the US is higher 90-110 V vs 60-75 V in Europe. This is not enough to give ringer the full amplitude. But some wood may resolve this issue: couple of matches to position the ringer coils perfectly on the metal core and it starts ringing on lower voltage. I want one day to put a KSU as well with the ringer generator for audible signalling. Then difference in voltage will not be a problem at all.
I have some vintage T&N items as well and of course some Bundes Post phones from the past. But they are not as robust as Western Electric phones.
I would say the only real problem is with WE 2554 type sets (compact wall models). Those use a ringer with suspended steel ball, which is extremely difficult to adjust to low voltage ringing. Normal size ringers are all in principle adjustible and can work on European lines with coil positioning. I had one of the sets with both bells covered with medical plaster, because I believe original ringer was too loud for the previous owner. I have to remove remainings of plaster and adhesive and polish the bells, now they look and sound amazing.
One of the new additions on my workbench are wall-mount COMDIAL 2851 from 1985 and 2-line Stromberg-Carlson 2553 from 1982. Both in ash color and came new in the box. I believe this is from US military surplus from some of the bases here, but I may be wrong (have no better idea who would ever ship stock of new 1A2 phones to Germany and keep it for 30 years.
And one which can be interesting for all - I'm sure you've never seen it before is Ascom Crystal ISDN system telephone for Ascom PBX. Look as nothing special now in comparison with large screen IP Phones, but if you imagine that both hardware and software was developed in Switzerland in 1984 by Autophon (that was one of the biggest Swiss companies producing phones, key sets and equipment since 1920s, now dead as well as Bell System and WE), for those times - end of 1980s it was quite an advanced instrument with full size multi-line LCD screen and full computer terminal capabilities (QWERTY keyboard is integrated into the set). It took some industrial design award around the same 1989 and was successfuly produced through 1990s. I think if you compare it with Merlin or other systems from that time, this was really unique for its time. It also works as a Key Telephone System.
Nice. I am an old 1A2 guy myself. I worked on them, and now I play with them. I worked on a 1A2 system that had approx 12,000 phones. The wiring arrangement for the 1035 dial adjunct should be the same for a 564 as it is for a 565. The internal line key is different, but the network/handset/dial connections are the same. The switchhook wires may (are) different, but comparing the BSP's for both, side by side, will allow you to see the differences. The 564 MIGHT not have the necessary transfer contact to allow the SPKRPHN to get switched on/off. I will check into that issue.
The original date can be found stamped on the side of the network.
I will see what varistor would be the proper replacement for the one called out in the BSP. You may be able to use one from the receiver unit of a G handset. I will check for you.
In return for all this exceptional kindness on my part, I would like us to stay in touch, so that when I see something interesting on www.Ebay.de (such as the afore-mentioned PAX's by T-N), I might impose upon you, at my expense of course, to accept and re-ship some items that I just can't live without.
I presently own a brand-new, old stock, T-N 15-2 PAX, and I'm looking for a 1-10 (single link, ten station) one.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Yes, you're right - wiring is similar in 564/565 (except speakerphone). However, part of modifications required for 1035 adjunct connection in BSP involve switchook wires on network which are soldered to the network in my 564, not screwed to the terminals. So modification will require to cut them out and solder new ones instead. It's painful to touch original wiring:) I even managed to get WE 185A network needed for adjunct, however not yet really modified the set.
Regarding German eBay stuff - let me know when you need smthg. I look also for a 551C shoebox with transformer removed to make it shippable (no sense to ship a 110V transformer which is probably half of 551C weight). So will more then welcome to use this service on both sides.
And really appreciate the mysterious 106A varistor spec, if you can find it.
There is a "two wire" method of connecting a 1035 dial (or, in fact, any 25- or 35-type dial) to practically any common battery telephone. It is simplicity itself, if I do say so.
Connect the orange/black, blue and green wires together, and insulate the splice. Connect the Black and Red/Green wires to the handset transmitter connections on the network or at any convenient location. Insulate and store, individually, all the other dial leads. The conversion draws current from the transmitter circuit, only when a dial button is depressed. It is polarity-sensitive, so you may need to reverse the red/g and black wires to get it to oscillate.
I augmented my income during the 1980's by installing 1035 dials on the key shelves of manual switchboards (cord PBX's), equipped with rotary dials. The adjuncts fit nicely on the left side of the key shelves, and the two leads were dropped down through a small hole and fastened to the transmitter leads of the headset jack below. I put a couple of 100 ohm resistors in the leads to limitthe current getting to the dial, and "tuned for minimum smoke."
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
If you would like to send me a private message, please do so. The best Email address is FireAcademyFoundation@optimum.net I can provide you with a 551 KSU "shoebox" sans power supply. I would also encourage you to join C*NET, which is a world-wide private telephone network for collectors and enthusiasts. See www.CKTS.info. There are several members in Germany and other EU countries.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Well, I got here to late to do much, except applaud.
Nice equipment. That Swiss unit looks spectacular.
As far as the equipment - it was probably either for a military base OR for the embassy. I had a friend who installed 1A2 in US Embassies overseas for many years. "Worked well, lasted long time" was the comment we used to make about it.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
Great pictures! I notice on several of the 6 button sets, the 6th button is a "Mute" button. I've never read about this option in any BSP, although I always wished for this option! If there is a BSP, could you share the number, or if it's custom designed, can you post the wiring? thanks!!
I imagine that the A-A1 contacts on the 6th key are wired across the transmitter leads at the network. That would short out the transmitter and mute it.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Mute function is not realized yet. The idea is to install a toggle relay inside the telephone set and use this button to activate and deactivate the relay and mute option. I will keep you posted when the circuit is ready. I also want to utilize hold button lamp to indicate mute mode activated, but this is in wishlist yet. I will probably move the mute function out of pick up key of the telephone set to an external button block (four button blocks you see in matching colors to each rotary set, normally used for buzzer signaling). The other buttons are for 107A loudspeaker activation (want to realize on-hook dialing with each telephone set) and for central system switch from common audible based on ringers to buzzers ("quite" mode). I have quite some phones around the house and when all are ringing on incoming call it can be too loud, so I want to switch instantly from ringers to buzzers and back. I'm currently busy with 551C KSU conversion to 230V and installing an electronic ringer generator (PowerDsine 12VDC to 70VAC rms @20Hz - works well with WE ringers) into shoebox power supply. Just received it from eBay and cleaned up for modification. Also 584C panel is on its way to me - this is for back up and test 1A2 system. Will keep you updated.
One other way to get the MUTE feature installed, and be able to have it cancel automatically, is to use the contacts provided on the extra switch hook contacts along with the white "pull up" switch hook plunger. When it's pulled up, it mutes, and it automatically resets when the handset is hung up. There are enough contacts to activate the lamp under the HOLD button for that, too.
Getting the 107A to monitor the phone is possible. Getting the ability to dial while on-hook, without a lot of relays, will be difficult. The speakerphone units, both 3-type and 4-type, rely on extra switch hook contacts and control wires to accomplish that.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Yes, I want to install a relay inside the telephone set to make on-hook dialing similar to 4A speakerphone. There is enough space inside on the buzzer place (second gong of the bell). Problem could be to select relay with proper make before brake sequence to avoid false hold condition. I will have 18VAC to power relay anyway on spare pair of 50 pair cable (needed to power 106A loudspeakers). I have unfortunately no exclusion kit on any of my sets.
My favorite KTU of all time was the 237B, which was originally designed for the add-on conference feature. It offered operation by using a non-locking line key to bridge two preset CO lines together. This non-locking key provided that 'toggle' functionality that you're seeking. The relay contacts on the KTU could be used for anything, not just conferencing lines. I used to use them for providing a one-touch 'night' button that would cause the 237B to activate a slave relay, placing a short on all of the CO lines in the system to force them to hunt (as busy), except the last one (Centrex), which had CFNA to a remote location.
It was also mighty handy for just a regular night bell throw switch that could be activated/deactivated by any station with that particular line key wired to it and unlocked. It offered plenty of separate contact closures so that T/R and lamp control could be accommodated for just about anything.
With that said, you could certainly use the 237B to toggle the mute function on and off using spare pairs in the line cord. To avoid imbalance hum, you'd need to use a full pair to and from the transmitter when placing the short across it. Otherwise, hum or bleed-through may occur if using split pairs (spares). Being a rack-mounted KTU, it obviously won't fit inside the set, however Mike Sandman offers some tiny relay concoctions that you can fit inside of a set.
To keep the installation as close to "BSP" as possible, you might want to know that in ComKey telephones that required power for the M-type relay in each set that was used for the privacy feature, -24Vdc was sent to each phone on the Brown/Violet lead of the mounting cord.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
A new member in my family - red (or rust) - would be glad to know exact WE color code for this beauty - Western Electric 565HKM from 1964 (refurbished in 1978 - looks like only dial has been changed at refurbishing).
This is one of the strange creatures from Bell System refurbishing shop - red phone has been painted red and original shiny black cord has been painted to "satin silver", though it is far away from real satin silver. Today was the whole day of restoration, I removed all paint from housing with alcohol and completely re-polished the plastic. Additional cord for data transmission device has been removed. It was cleaned inside and outside.
It's an nteresting color - it changes on camera depending on the light. Here is the picture in more natural light. i suspect it is Western Electric color code -124 Rust, but I may be wrong. But this is for sure not simple red. Have no idea if 565-model has been produced in color code 124, but it is a real plastic, not paint now.
This is how it came to me from eBay - dirty and rude:
All functions tested - perfectly works with 4A speakerphone, dial will require some oil, but this is for one of later days.
Key telephones were never made in Rust. That is a "Cherry Red" telephone. Color suffix -56.
On rotary WE phones, the color suffix is stamped on the back of the dial. You will find the dial model number (9-type) plus the date of manufacture in the format mm-yy, and the color suffix.
It is not unusual to find a WE phone repainted in its original color. It was cheaper to refurbish a phone using that method than it was to clean and polish a scratched or discolored housing.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Big hunting - a unique and very useful addition to my collection. I was long time dreaming about Call Director, however there is no much practical sense for me in 30 incoming lines or plain signal keys. So instead I've found a good alternative from Western Electric - 2872A2M Touch-A-Matic telephone set dated 1979 with 31 electronic memory speed dial buttons and last number dialed button. I believe this is one of the very first (if not the first) telephone with redial function.
These are hard to find and they are rather expensive, so I was glad to get one even in not very good condition - see below how it came to me from eBay - considerable discoloration of Light Beige housing and yellowing of memory buttons. Restoration included standard plastic sanding and polishing, but there is another step which was required - whitening of memory buttons field. I'm fully satisfied with the results. Handset will require change - this one is too worn off. Also will need to find a way to make a new battery for it and install 13,5 V transformer (ordered).
If anyone on this forum has a similar telephone set (potentially connected to a speakerphone), I would kindly ask to let me know. I want to realize one touch calling function on the set (pressing any memory button automatically turns on speakerphone, detect dial tone and dial the number so the conversation can be started immediately with only one button touch). For this purpose set requires 2 kits of parts, which I believe impossible to find now (Speakerphone connection board and dial tone detector board). These are two small boards installed inside the set under the white dial cover. The only thing I need is detailed photos of these 2 boards - I want to make a copy boards on my own. If anyone has SD circuit drawings for these two auxiliary boards - this would be fantastic. I have BSP for 2872A2M, but it gives no details on kits of parts besides mentioning them for one touch calling function.
551C KSU from 1981 is converted to 230V, wired and made operational. Now in more details.
I managed to find a matching size power transformer with necessary secondary voltages. Original Western Electric 110V transformer is on the left (removed) and the new one is on the right (installed).
Below is a new transformer in closer look. I was lucky enough to find this one on eBay here in Germany. The dimensions are really very close to original WE one, it is only slightly narrower so I have to drill another hole for fixing it. One may see now the original small hole in the power supply unit faceplate, however it will be used later for a lamp indicating activated ring generator.
The transformer has 3 secondary coils: 10V, 18V and 24V. Later one is used to provide DC 24V output for signalling and talk. I've installed a precision regulated power board (behind the transformer) as I use 24V AC coil of transformer to provide power for 24VDC circuits (551C scheme requires common ground on positive side of DC and one of the sides of AC voltages, if 18VAC and rectified 24VDC are taken from the same secondary coil, then diode rectifier bridge need to be modified to 3 diodes scheme instead of 4 diodes full bridge. I've decided not to bother with that and install a precision DC power supply board to have regulated and precise 24VDC). Original filter capacitors block has been removed from service to save space within the power supply unit.
Also installed Siemens & Halske power varistors for 20V and 14V to protect buzzer and lamps outputs from possible transformer's inrush current or other bad things. They are soldered directly to the 8-pin blue Amphenol connector of power unit (see upper left corner of the photo below).
A small bonus - I've ordered on eBay a regulated power board with no LED, as I don't need it and don't want to waste energy. However, I received an alternative model with blue LED indicating power on state. Decided not to cut it out for now. It actually gives a nice deep blue background in the power unit making it look fun.
New transformer fits well the housing of 28D2 power unit, have some space inside for ring generator board and potentially control unit for audibles.
If I were a marketer of Western Electric / Bell System I would have called it "Mystery Blue" and probably would charge customers $1.99 per month for this additional feature. Mention the small hole behind the blue voltage selector wire (it is not used any longer, just left it for cosmetic purposes to keep the look of original unit). This is the original transformer mounting point. New one is slightly to the right from it. I will later use this hole to bring up on the panel a miniature lamp, which will be run in parallel with ring generator, so lamp will indicate when the ring generator is powered on (I don't want to power it continuously, it takes power in idle state and also goes warm. So it will be controlled by a power MOSFET transistor from interruptor's motor start lead. Thus ring generator will receive power - rectified 10VAC which is 12VDC - only when interruptor is activated, and this is when ringing voltage is needed).
Siemens & Halske power varistors on the Amphenol output connector within the power supply unit. I have become superstitious to line transformers after an integrated rectifiers bridge in my 108A loudspeaker unit of 4A speakerphone has been killed by a secondary 18VAC coils of a big transformer (the one which will be used for powering 584C panel later) presumably during power on/power off cycle. Now varistors are everywhere and Zenner diodes are in stock to provide more precise protection (not installed in this version).
Nitty-gritty wiring job on KSU's 66 block. I'm happy I've got a punch down tool, since I planned originally to install wires manually. What a pleasure I had with a punch tool instead for $8.50. This is really a great thing for dealing with 66 blocks. I was surprised that limited space for cabling within 551C KSU is in reality more than enough to make a neat termination. For now only two 25-pair cables with female Amphenol end are terminated here, I plan to add two more when they arrive. These ends are made from old Amphenol male-female extender cables with plastic ends. I've ordered some cables with original metal shell female Amphenol plugs. I will re-terminate these cables as well with metal Amphenols. Strange enough, but female Amphenols are in much bigger shortage than their male counterparts. I have a supply of plastic black AMP connectors here for ~$2.50, but I like original metal ones more. And those are possible to find as male, but female almost not exist on eBay.
I managed to find a Western Electric gray color insulation tape (of course it is not WE brand, I'm only talking about the color. Lines pairs are divided by this tape. So if anyone needs a grey insultaion tape I can mail it from the nearest Bauhaus (this is a German construction outlet like Home Depot in States).
Small rust brown unit in the right cable tray is PowerDsine 3W ringing generator (12VDC to 70VrmsAC). This tiny unit is the heart of my 551C KSU audibles. It will power all ringers in my telephone sets and as well Western Electric Chime bell to provide service of central ringer. This is a highly recommended unit, small and powerful it is potted in ceramic providing necessary protection and heat dissipation properties. It can be powered from 10VAC lamp battery via a rectifier (red and black wires). Output 70VAC ringing voltage (white and blue wires) is routed to RG and RB terminals of 551C KSU. I sourced these units from a guy in Israel were they were produced till 1996. This is a NOS supply, looks they produced more than they could sell at that time.
Four 400-series line cards (San/Bar 4000F) are installed into line card jacks of the KSU. I like San/Bar more as they are well designed and made, and suitable for repair. WE 400D are good, but they are on the metal board and really look like from stone age. I have some in stock, but they will be used on 584C panel. Haven't tried yet WE 400H cards on solid state circuits, which originally came with this KSU. Those should operate silently, since they have no magnet coil relays (all is solid state) and only one reed relay, but that one is with mercury wetted contacts and only can be installed vertically. So I can mount those cards only when KSU is on the wall.
For the nearest future the following improvements are planned:
1) Produce and install ringing generator power control board and install it into the KSU, so that ringing generator is activated by motor start voltage of interruptor and shut down after ringing cadence is not needed any longer.
2) Produce a feature block based on one 4-switching contacts relay to be able to easily switch between common audible based on ringers to buzzers and back across the whole network. This is an easy task, I plan this switch to be activated by pressing a signal key on any of the telephone sets connected.
3) Extend 551C KSU service to 5 lines. There is indeed a designed place for 5th line card below the standard cards slots. This space has thread holes for a jack and even mounting holes for a retaining bracket like on upper card slots (of course there is no bracket provided). I will take 18-pin line card jack from 584C panel (I don't need 13 lines there and 13 is not a good number, I like 12 much more) and wire it up. The only engineering reason I see from finally abandoned idea to furnish 551C KSU with 5 lines service (which would have been fantastic, since these combined commercial/residential shoe box in this case would have matched the most popular layout of 1 hold and 5 pick up buttons of standard 1A2 telephone sets) is that they could squeeze in a 66 block with enough terminals for all 5 lines. And this reason is stupid for me. I've ordered a 6-pin small additional 66 block and will terminate line 5 there (will need to figure out where to place this additional block - probably on the bracket above the interruptor where 118A ringer generator is installed, since I don't need a 118A generator.
Trouble encountered:
Somehow have problem with Tip and Ring polarity. San/Bar 4000 line cards are not sensitive to CO line polarity, however they don't want to detect ring when I put polarity correctly (tip is positive to ring). Reverse polarity works well for ring detection, so I have to keep it as is ("plus" of CO line is on ring terminal). However this cause a problem with one of my 565 telephone sets - touch tone dials is inoperative in this condition. Reversing CO line polarity to normal allows dialing out but disables ringing detection by all four line cards. If anyone has an assumption of possible cause, would be great to know.
Here's the first video of 1A2 system testing on 2872A2M and 564HK telephone sets. Will keep you posted on updates. Comments and recommendations are welcomed.
Not sure why the San Bar cards are doing that. Don't recall that ever being an issue. Have you tried reversing polarity on the line INSIDE the set?
I seem to remember that there was a provision on ITT sets to disable the polarity guard by cutting a strap on the back of the Tone Dial. I don't know if that would apply to WECO sets, I'll have to look.
Nice job on the shoebox!
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
551C KSU has been mounted to the wall next to my Ascom 2030 ISDN PBX (4 analogue lines run from this PBX to the KSU), connected to common ground and commissioned to regular service.
Control board for PowerDsine ringing generator has been made - I simplified it versus originally planned design. It actually takes only rectifying bridge, one filter capacitor and a protective 300 Ohm 3W resistor for the output 70Vrms circuit. As planned I've added a miniature lamp to indicate active state of ring generator - it flashes whenever ringing signal is sent to the common audible pair. Right side of the board is not needed actually, but I've decided not to cut it for the time being as I may need to place an additional relay on it in the future.
All mounted on the metal bracket from the construction supermarket. Back side of wiring board is potted into hotmelt glue to protect from short circuits. Only 2 pairs coming out: 10VAC in from interrupted common audible (white-red) and 70VAC output (white-yellow) for ringing signal to the system common ringer pair. They are terminated to 551C KSU's 66 block.
Bracket is mounted using one of the original holes for ringing generator mounting bracket (the unobtainable one). It covers part of the 66 block, however if needed it can be turned up or down from this position to open access to corresponding terminals of 66 block. I could turn it around to position it above the interruptor, but I don't want to occupy space for 5th line card in the 551C KSU, since it will be added later.
Miniature 12V lamp is connected in parrallel with ringing generator to the output of integrated rectifying diode bridge. So it lights up following the cadence of ringing signal.
With full uncut board KSU cover still perfectly fits - so everything is left as it is now. Probably I will make one day an Issue 2 control board with improved appearance and functionality. For now this works perfectly.
I have finally opted for using existing switching relay in Ascom 2030 PBX instead of installing additional one into the KSU. This relay has one set of contacts (normally closed and normally opened), which is activated by a button on the system set or via phone code. I wired this relay to switch common audibles from ringers (via control board and PowerDsine ringing generator) to buzzers (10VAC) and back. So now I can instantly switch between these two modes by dialing special code 12-75 on any of 1A2 sets connected. Very handy function for keeping the system flexible.
Software
Now when the stage one hardware works have been completed on my 1A2 system, I've spent some time programming the Ascom 2030 PBX to deal properly with 4-lines wired into KSU:
Hunting group has been created to cycle the extension numbers in the KSU. PBX provides extension 40 (Line 1), 41 (Line 2), 42 (Line 3) and 43 (Line 4). Now if any of called extensions is busy, the next line button will ring. Group is circular, so if Line 4 (extension 43) is busy, system will come back to Line 1 or any free line button available.
With incoming external calls it looks cool: first incoming call on my external number appears on Line 1 button. If I occupy this button and somebody calls my number at the same time, this call will appear on Line 2 button. If both are busy, then it will hunt further and indicate call on Line 3 button. Finally if I have 3 lines in use (on hold or in conversation), next incoming call will appear on Line 4 button. This is how business telephone system should work in my view: incoming line should never be busy (unless I occupy all 4 lines).
I could extend it to Line 5 button, however it is reserved for mobile phone integration via Bluetooth gate in the next release.
2872A2M Touch-A-Matic update:
Battery repair. Each 2872A2M Touch-A-Matic set is equipped with 1200 mAh 5V Ni-Cd battery. Nominal life cycle of this battery is 4 years according to BSP. My set has battery dated 1980, so no chance to hope old cells can give anythings after 37 years. Actually this battery already started to leak, creating some damage to the connectors and metal base around the battery. See picture of RJ11 connector on the battery.
Battery housing is sealed, so I have to saw it around the seam to get access to accumulator cells.
Inside the black box I have found four 1.5V cells mounted on hotmelt glue, all in salt and electrolyte. Quick search on eBay revealed exact size battery pack used for AEG portable vacuum cleaner. Difference is that it is Ni-MH and hence has slightly higher capacity of 1600 mAh. So Touch-A-Matic can withstand longer power outrage than with the original battery.
My guess was correct and ordered batteries fit perfectly into the original box.
First step of repair - RJ11 connector has been changed to a new one. No cleaning would have helped with the damage from leaking battery.
Wires have been soldered to the new battery terminal and it has been assembled back with sealing the perimeter with hotmelt glue. 2872A2M has a lockout to prevent using the autodial function without battery connected. In reality this lockout is only 2 black wires bridged together and connected to the negative terminal of the battery pack.
That's it - battery is installed back to Touch-A-Matic set and tested for memory retention without the AC power. I don't know how energy efficient memory circuits are in this 1980 telephone set, but this accu pack can power a vacuum cleaner for couple of hours I believe. So I can only imagine how long memory chips would eat all this 1.6 Ampere-hours to run it to zero.
Still looking for somebody in the possession of Touch-A-Matic set with speakerphone function. I would appreciate just some pictures of this option board to be able to produce it on my own.
I am on the trail of either (1) a set of the two circuit boards required for "one-touch" dialing with speakerphone, or (2) the SD's for those two boards. I will let you know as soon as I am in possession of either or both.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
551C KSU from 1981 is converted to 230V, wired and made operational. Now in more details.
I managed to find a matching size power transformer with necessary secondary voltages. Original Western Electric 110V transformer is on the left (removed) and the new one is on the right (installed).
You could have simply used a 220/120v step down transformer. That would have saved you a lot of needless work and kept everything original. Just sayin...
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
551C KSU from 1981 is converted to 230V, wired and made operational. Now in more details.
I managed to find a matching size power transformer with necessary secondary voltages. Original Western Electric 110V transformer is on the left (removed) and the new one is on the right (installed).
You could have simply used a 220/120v step down transformer. That would have saved you a lot of needless work and kept everything original. Just sayin...
-Hal
That would not have saved me anything, because first of all I tried to connect it via 220/110V portable converter which I use while traveling and it gave 48V instead of 24V, so I was lucky not to burn out my line cards. For continuously powered device this is not the best idea to go via two step transforming. Second, that would leave an additional unit outside the KSU, now I have a normal plug on the cable which I need just to connect. What you call needless work I call my hobby and it brings me a lot of fun. This is why this all is started. So probably most of described on this forum is in some way needles work, since people can just use their iPhone instead of building 1A2 system at home.
That would not have saved me anything, because first of all I tried to connect it via 220/110V portable converter which I use while traveling and it gave 48V instead of 24V, so I was lucky not to burn out my line cards. For continuously powered device this is not the best idea to go via two step transforming.
Well, if you would have used an actual transformer instead of God knows what that converter was there wouldn't have been a problem. It certainly would have been good for continuous operation given that you sized it properly.
I take no joy from bastardizing well designed vintage equipment by making all kinds of modifications to it using present day components. If you like to tinker, that's your prerogative. I installed those when they were new. There wasn't much I would change then, certainly nothing now.
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
I believe that Bell Labs generated some of the best pieces of telecommunication equipment ever in the history of mankind. And Western Electric has produced it in the best possible way. And this is probably the one and the only example of how a good purpose monopoly can serve the public in the best way.
But I still believe there is room for improvement to tailor that to particular situation like in my case to alternative voltage, as well as to low voltage rining generators available nowadays, as well as wiring an additional relay to swicth from buzzers to ringers and back instantly. 220->110V transformer would cost me more and the one I purchased was around $10 from local eBay. Moreover, I keep all the original components and can return back instantly if needed.
I would agree with you, since I also have a principle and never change wiring on any of my telephone sets from original WE design and BSP documentation. I feel pain when I see 1A2 multiline sets rewired for single line "home use" by removing the 25-pair cable instead of providing a suitable AMP adapter with Line 1 wired and changing the ringer connection in the telephone set to bridged ringing.
So I would agree with you on the approach to keep everything as close as possible to BSP, and perhaps the only exception I've made was with my 551C KSU. I'm also fascinated with WE quality, since there is no part in those telephone sets which I can't restore to the mint condition with simple techniques after 40-50 years of heavy duty service. This is so rare in our world of one time used products and cheap plastic items. So we alldo the same thing - preserving this heritage of great telecommunications past.... "Keeping your telephone system the best in the world"
P.S. Still exploring the functionality and convenience of my 1A2 system, which is unbelievable and unmatched.
And a bit off topic, over here we are beginning to see young people who have little knowledge of PCs or computers. They grew up with a "smartphone" in their hand and that has become their link to the internet and everything we would use a computer for.
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
I have to agree with you Hal regarding the iPhone saga. When I mention to people that I use a desktop PC at work and home, the Millennials look at me as if I have lost my mind. I've noticed that many programs, specifically those associated with social media, have started using smart phone icons and functionality. Hey, even Windows 8 and above is designed for the smart phone minded customers. As I try to assist my elderly mother with her AOL account, I too find myself scratching my head when searching for simple functions, like printing. I suppose I'm headed out to pasture sooner than expected because I refuse to let go of what works.
Ed, Hal, I feel your pain. Even my friends who are around my age (38) don't have desktop PC's and conduct almost all of their online affairs via cell phone. They think I'm "old fashioned" because I have a several desktop PC's and a traditional telco landline. In fact, one of my friends was trying to sell a TV on craigslist, but he needed to find a new power cord for it. He had no clue what kind so he sent me a picture of the socket and it was a standard computer power cord. I forget the number, but the same cord that's been on PC's since the IBM PC AT/XT or even earlier. I told him it was a regular computer cord and his response: "You know I don't have a computer, and I don't see a need to ever have one." That pretty much summed it up for me. Personally, I don't see how someone can type up a resume on an iphone or ipad, but that is the way things seem to be going. Personally, I can't imagine life without my PC. On the other hand, maybe there is hope. I have a much younger friend (21) who is absolutely fascinated with all my old phones and aging technology. He said something the other night about the sound of a dial-up modem and was having a moment of nostalgia. I told him, "I can bring a little of that back to life for you" and proceeded to start Hyperterminal on my two workshop PC's. Using my partner ACS as a switch, I dialed from one PC to the other. His face lit up when he heard the modems doing their thing, and we spent an entirely pointless hour typing in Hyperterminal from one PC to the other, laughing like a couple of fools. We even made some ascii art.
Heck, I was happy to finally get long distance on my landline yesterday for the first time. Funny how with some griping, you can get more and pay less. Went from unlimited regional to unlimited nationwide, and my bill went down $9 a month. Guess I'll take even a minor victory when I can.
I used to say I fly in a vacuum. Every time I log on to these forums I'm reminded I'm not alone. Keep on trucking and long live analog goodness!
Chris, would you be able to come down here and speak at my funeral? just a few short words along the lines of your remarks here on the forum. Thanks in advance, Uncle Arthur.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
I love when people ask me what I do for a living. When I answer them with "I install and service telephone systems", after the blank stare, I get the usual "Oh, you work for Verizon?" question. Of course, everyone also assumes that I'm a smart phone guru too with their 'how to' questions. Yeah, I guess it really is that simplistic to those on the outside.
Arthur, let's hope your thanks are WAAAAAAAY in advance. Oh, and as a side note, I finally got that 1A2 set you gave me restored. You know, the black one with the headset jacks that came with a free sample of the hantavirus? The paint orange-peeled a little bit, but I'll eventually polish it out.
My next project is refurbing a few merlin breadboxes. I have figured out the secret to getting rid of the red warning light of death. Look forward to a dissertation and photos in the Avaya forum coming soon.
Ive had pretty good luck fixing them up. Done about 4 410's and a couple 206's.I don't want to hijack this thread too much, but repairing electronics is a hobby of mine. Especially anything phone related. Besides, I can get them for about the price of shipping and turn around and sell them for a quick profit. The only one so far I haven't been able to resuscitate was a lighting hit. It didn't do any physical damage to the board but it fried the processor. Everything else was fine, so the rest is good for parts. And since the Merlin was the successor to 1A2, it has a special place in my heart. Plus I've always thought the original membrane Merlin's were just cool. Very sleek and modern for their time and a huge departure from the electromechanical systems mother had been using for the better part of 40 years.
A bit off topic. I've decided that printing the designation tabs for these phones on modern printer is loss of authenticity. So I've ordered a bunch of original blank designation tabs and started my hunting for an IBM Selectric II ball head typewriter. I will keep you posted - this will be a big fun! Driving 150 miles next week on the way to my business trip to pick up one of those in red, which will perfectly match one of my cherry red 2565.
I always liked those IBM ball head typewriters. The mechanism always fascinated me. I'd love to own one, but I'm running out of room to put stuff. I've always wanted to set up a "retro office" with things like that old typewriter and a 565, maybe a nice oak desk and period pieces to round out the theme. I'd love to walk into that room and think I'd stepped back in time. Without the wood paneling, though!
I always liked those IBM ball head typewriters. The mechanism always fascinated me. I'd love to own one, but I'm running out of room to put stuff. I've always wanted to set up a "retro office" with things like that old typewriter and a 565, maybe a nice oak desk and period pieces to round out the theme. I'd love to walk into that room and think I'd stepped back in time. Without the wood paneling, though!
Exactly! And why not to take this fantastic piece of machinery if it's available now at 10-15$?! Also have an idea to build an office of the past... I like repairing things and cleaning things, bringing them back to life. Selectric is just a masterpiece with fully mechanical digital-analog converter and lots of point to oil. Will have fun with it, it's not only for designation tabs.
In the very first days of personal computing (about 1979-1981) they made a Selectric interface. It was a solenoid panel that fit over the keyboard and tapped out your print. Remember, dot matrix printers were ugly and didn't even have descenders on the lowercase letters. Qume printers were VERY expensive in 1980's dollars, and the poor guy like me didn't have hundreds of dollars to buy one anyway something like 40 of them.
In the very first days of personal computing (about 1979-1981) they made a Selectric interface. It was a solenoid panel that fit over the keyboard and tapped out your print. Remember, dot matrix printers were ugly and didn't even have descenders on the lowercase letters. Qume printers were VERY expensive in 1980's dollars, and the poor guy like me didn't have hundreds of dollars to buy one anyway something like 40 of them.
This is exactly the idea which came to my mind while thinking about Selectric: to make an interface based on solenoids to print from PC. Need to see, probably some are still available around.
I have two dot matrix printers here (actually 3 - third is for printing log from PBX): one for A4 width and one big for A3. Both equipped with continuous paper. I print long lists on them. Smaller one is cool - I have a color cartridge for it - CMYK, so it allows to print in color. That was like the top of dot matrix technology just before it died.
But typewriter type printer is much cooler. There were big ones with daisy wheel, which printed the whole line in one hit, but they are rare and expensive. They were very fast in printing
Here they are! Picked up from the owners on the way to business trip.
So far the idea was to take 2 or 3 with different defects at negligible cost and make out of that one good. But it looks I was wrong: IBM in 1970s produced with the same approach as Western Electric - i.e. Last Forever. Out of two one has been already repaired by me in the hotel room with no tools (fingers hurt a bit).
I'm afraid now that I will end up with 4 good red Selectrics, since I've contacted several people and all of them committed to give their ones away since they can't repair them and most probably don't need.
In States these are pricey. Here people give it for $5-10 only to get rid of them.
I was impressed with the quality: first time saw a carbon tape (this is the one time tape) - quality of printing is exact as on high resolution laser printer or better.
In States these are pricey. Here people give it for $5-10 only to get rid of them.
Wouldn't know, ours went in the dumpster about 10 years ago. I really don't think they are worth anything here either. Mine had a couple of AA batteries down inside on the bottom when you lifted the cover. Never could figure out what they were for. Don't remember it looking like those- completely mechanical.
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
Wouldn't know, ours went in the dumpster about 10 years ago. I really don't think they are worth anything here either. Mine had a couple of AA batteries down inside on the bottom when you lifted the cover. Never could figure out what they were for. Don't remember it looking like those- completely mechanical.
-Hal
Go to eBay and see what people ask for Selectric II or I. I was shocked!
Western Electric 2632CM1 beige Call Director has arrived today safely.
This will be a long restoration project - it looks like it has spend couple of decades in a very humid place, so a lot of oxidation and rust on all metal parts inside and outside. Base will need to be re-painted on the bottom. Nevertheless initial check indicated functionality of all major components within the set.
Restoration plan includes complete cleanup of all internal and external parts, housing sanding and repolishing, upgrade to the full 18-buttons functionality and a new paper insert under the faceplate.
Long way to go, but this guy has all chances to see his better times and come back to the mint condition.
P.S. Insects debris has been already removed from the set...
Good luck! That's going to be a long time labor of love!.
Sam
Two days probably if I focus solely on this. But I want to enjoy the process. Now I have a dedicated space for this type of repair, so no need to create a mess at my regular desk
Some of more sweet stuff on my table in a new phone lab:
Revox A77 reel-to-reel stereo tape recorder made on Feb 15, 1973. This is to make a repair work on the phones more enjoyable.
This is a nice piece of Hi-Fi equipment with very good Swiss engineering inside. All Audio elements (left, right playback amplifiers, left and right record amplifiers, input amplifier, relays boards, oscillator, etc.) are made in a form of WE 400-type line cards: they are modular and inserted into similar multi-pin connectors on the backboard. So any trouble can be easily traced and corrected in minutes by replacing the cards.
I actually have now two of them (I always prefer to have a duplicate item for a good thing, just in case).
For these reel-to-reel guys - this IS the aftermarket! All our 1A2 rare items prices have nothing to do with what these guys pay for Revox devices and accessories. Not to mention WE audio electronic tubes - those cost an arm and a leg.
Ah yes! I have access to an old Sony 7.5" reel-to-reel at my Church. The drive belt must be stretched as the speed is off. The felt pressure pads for the tape heads are worn off and all three heads must be worn by now.
Sadly, nobody really fixes them anymore, and, tapes are long gone from the market. There is a box of tapes I can try to play as time allows.
Ah yes! I have access to an old Sony 7.5" reel-to-reel at my Church. The drive belt must be stretched as the speed is off. The felt pressure pads for the tape heads are worn off and all three heads must be worn by now.
Sadly, nobody really fixes them anymore, and, tapes are long gone from the market. There is a box of tapes I can try to play as time allows.
For Revox a service manual is available for download from the manufacturer, plenty of parts on eBay, even the special kits with new variable resistors (trimmers) sets, transistors, capacitors, etc. This one has no belt (except the one for mechanical counter, which is not a critical application) - this is a 3-motor direct drive machine, i.e. the tape moving shaft and both reels are set directly on the motor shafts with no gears or belts transmission. I've cleaned and re-oiled the so called capstan motor (this is the one moving the tape at regulated precise speed) and it works well. This one utilizes semi-professional heads - they are huge in size and I believe have a good resource for wear off. And there are plenty of masters who fix them, upgrade them for a very good money. But I prefer to do it myself.
P.S. The 1/4" tape is still available (new one) since there are still many professional studious who prefer to use the classical non-digital technology. Old tapes are indeed no good - they deteriorate and start to produce an oxide dust which is all over the place.
I plan to use one of these machines for recording the telephone conversations (conference calls) at reduced speed of 3 3/4 inches per second, so will have in total ~16 hours capacity on one 10.5" reel with 1100 m of tape (because of 4 tracks available for monophonic recording). Will need to tied it up to a WE telephone - not sure if it should be a direct connection or via some sort of isolating transformer (like in WE 107B loudspeaker). Probably Arthur knows it...
A NOS NIB Precision Components 4A speakerphone has arrived yesterday. First impression was negative, since it is not a 100% reproduction of Western Electric 4A as I expected from pictures.
The major differences are:
1) Front panel of PC-108A loudspeaker is made of painted grayish-tan metal, not a sand-blasted aluminum like WE 108A
2) "OFF" an "ON OR QUITE" designations on the PC-680A transmitter are engraved in plastic and filled with black paint, not a double molding item from WE.
3) The red LED cap is attached to the stationary transmitter cover, not to the LED board itself. And the LED is not typical WE rectangular LED with lens, but a simple cheap LED. LED goes off when the ON OR QUITE button is depressed, so there is no visual indication of speakerphone being active while on mute (with coin technique, or I actually use a paper clip from metal wire with PVC cover not to scratch the plastic). On the other hand there is a clear indication that the microphone is deactivated, so this is actually good. Stationary cap has a factory installed shielding from a copper foil strip to protect the volume control variable resistor from RFI when user touches the wheel.
4) Better not to look inside - what you see there will resemble that this thing was designed and made in a garage. 4 PCBs are screwed to a thick pieces of transparent Plexiglas on both sides and it looks like it was cut manually by a hand saw and drilled with a accu screwdrver. BUT there are no flexible PCB there connecting the 3 main boards, which is the most thin place in WE 108A design. So chances are it will survive aging better than WE 4A.
But once I have connected that to the system my opinion has changed:
The sound quality is very good on both sides, specifically:
1) there is absolutely no hum from 18 VAC, which was the issue with original WE 4A whta made me to change it from 18 VAC from transformer to a filtered DC power supply.
2) transmission from the microphone is also very good with no hum or distortion.
All in all, because of the sound quality this item from Precision Component receives an approval for use in my 1A2 system.
DO NOT connect your TAM power to the system voltage from the KSU. One of the sides of power supply within the TAM has a jump wire to a phone line (T or R side, not sure).
So the transformer 13.5 VAC coil should be a true isolated (free floating) coil. Otherwise it can cause issues within the system.
Note that the area on the TAM faceplate, just above the TT dial, is a perfect spot to mount the 4A transmitter unit, using double-sided tape. It keeps the transmitter from using extra space on the desktop, and its location is always obvious.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Note that the area on the TAM faceplate, just above the TT dial, is a perfect spot to mount the 4A transmitter unit, using double-sided tape. It keeps the transmitter from using extra space on the desktop, and its location is always obvious.
Hi Arthur, you gave me an answer to a mistery which bothered me for a long. I’ve almost bought 2 faceplates for TAM, but stopped when I saw the pictures: both were drilled in that area above the dial. I couldn’t understand who would drill it there and why. Now I see that most probably those were from TAMs with transmitter screwed above the dial.
But I’d like to keep it simple and in two separate parts. I like to move around while at desk, so I place the transmitter in different locations depending on if I present something from my computer or just lean back and participate occasionally in the conversation.
I used to work at the radio station many years ago. Since that time I automatically place any microphone I use into perfect location in terms of distance and direction of voice. This is uncontrollable.
And for my favorite telephones (and TAM is definitely the one, second being black WE 564 which started my whole collection) I always have enough space on the side extention to my desk. It is lower level vs. main desk, so it can’t be used for anything else.
As Confucius say: Holes bad. Tape good. Velcro® best.
I worked 6 years for 3M. I would say VHB is the best. Or Command for removable bond.
P.S. I’ve got it today - pink beauty 564. Hope it will come safe. I will share with you. This baby will require a lot of hydrogen peroxide and sandpaper, but I know beneath she’s a real beauty.
Speaking of the 4A speakerphones.... In AT&T's headquarters we had mostly 4As in small conference rooms. But the problem was "mute" would only mute as long as you held the button down. The ingenious solution was while holding the button down, slide a penny between the button and outer shell. Perfect thickness to keep the button down! Of course, before the first year of Divestiture was even over, the New Jersey Bell Centrex was removed, and replaced by a System 85 (1A2 equipment & phones were hauled out by the dumpster). The mute on the new voice terminals was toggled on and off, saving meeting participants money!
Speaking of the 4A speakerphones.... In AT&T's headquarters we had mostly 4As in small conference rooms. But the problem was "mute" would only mute as long as you held the button down. The ingenious solution was while holding the button down, slide a penny between the button and outer shell. Perfect thickness to keep the button down! Of course, before the first year of Divestiture was even over, the New Jersey Bell Centrex was removed, and replaced by a System 85 (1A2 equipment & phones were hauled out by the dumpster). The mute on the new voice terminals was toggled on and off, saving meeting participants money!
I know this story! This is why instead of a penny I use a PVC covered paper clip. Sorry to say, but none of post divestiture speakerphones provide a comparable quality of sound in comparison to 4A. When you save metal, you save metal and loose the sound. I say as an expert in acoustics.
A way for old employees to make money in the 1970's:
Tell the new employees to place a quarter ($0.25 coin) in the "Make Busy" contacts of 197-type step-by-step switches, if they found a switch that was defective. The older employees would come around later that day and replace the quarter with a penny. Then the next day they would repair and/or adjust the switch, and leave the penny on the switch shelf for the new guy to retrieve. Profit per switch: $0.24.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Tube amplifiers are cool and fancy. What about tube power supply?
Well... here you are:
I bought a used mixing console with no power supply. Before I find one factory made, I made this temporary setup. Console requires 2 coils of 19VAC. This is exactly what I have from my 1A2 transformer (2 by 18VAC each). But this guy is dangerous: it’s a big transformer and rush-in/rush-out energy is huge. When you unplug it from current on primary side a higher voltage is induced in the low side. This killed an integrated rectifier (bridge) in my very first 4A Speakerphone, which I powered from this transformer. After several on/off cycles it died till I found the faulty bridge, resoldered it to just a jumper and since that time have to power from filtered 24VDC with taking care of polarity.
Since that time every transformer I work with gets a dedicated varistor from Siemens&Halske with rated voltage. However, quick checks this time showed that it doesn’t help with this transformer. Powering off induces ~100V peak on the 18VAC coil at power off. Looks varistors are slow triggered devices which can help in case of constant overvoltage.
Didn’t have time yesterday to bother with Zenner diodes, so just plugged in a 220V light bulb across both coils (36VAC nominal). It lights a bit during the operation in normal. Mode, but is supposed to absorb any of peak voltages at transition states. Similar to bulb protectors/fuses in some of old switches.
Simple things sometimes work so good in this world!!
Finally my beige 2872A2M Touch-A-Matic works with matching color PC 4A Speakerphone. Rare kit of parts required for converting 2872 to speakerphone service is extracted from black TAM I’ve just received. That one will require some good repair: part of power supply board is burned out. But for now Speakerphone board is enough. Thanks to Arthur for relaying this TAM to me. Appreciate if anyone can share the SD of TAM set (2872A2M) or just PSB (power supply board). Will need it for repair.
A friend reports that he has located both circuit boards required to do the "one touch dialing w/ speakerphone" option on a TAM 32.
Stand by for updates!!!
That is very good - I’ve a couple of spare TAM 32’s waiting for speakerphone option. TAM 32 with speakerphone is way different level of service vs. plain TAM 32. I wonder why they haven’t included this option by default and just charged higher lease in the first place.
Just a curiosity question. Did anyone ever involved into the old Bell System service organization know, why TouchTone dials specifically used for Princess phones were less reliable then regular TT pads?
I have plenty of WE old TT pads in my various 1A2 telephones - none of those ever required any repair or adjustment, except taking care of proper polarity.
However, having now 2 princess phones and having done a market research on those on eBay, I see that many of Princess do not dial out.
The first one that already arrived I have repaired by re-tuning the high and low frequency coils with a frequency meter, so now it dials out perfectly. However, I have never came across the lost tuning on other WE TT dials and never touched those factory adjusted coils.
In my view difference of Princess dial was only in transparent buttons, but not in frequency generator electronics. And the coils used are the same. Could it be that for some reason coils in Princess phones were not fixed with paint/glue after factory adjustment and so after years of vibration they may turn a bit causing the frequencies to creep.
The coils on the Princess dials are mechanically different. They are taller. I know this because I have tried to use them in 2565 sets over the years to get a lighted dial feature on those key sets. There is just not quite enough room to do it.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
So this is the price of additional features. The thing can’t anymore serve for 50 years without tuning . However, tuning the coils on Princess phone resolves the issue. My black Princess now dials out without an issue and I now have two cheap pocket multimeters with frequency meter, specifically for this purpose.
The idea with placing the lighted dial on 2565 came to my mind also when I saw how good this feature is in dark environment. This Princess (to be equipped with WE 6050 key strip for 1A2 multiline functionality) I bought for my Home Theater/Studio sofa which doesn’t have space for a full size 2565 in handy convenient position next the the sofa’s arm. But the theater is operated at dimmed or no light most of the time. So this Princess feature was a perfect “fit for purpose“ in this case. Old mobile phone charger with 5VDC output did the trick with supplying power to 2 amber LED installed instead of the bulb.
Though it could be a solution elsewhere with 2565. My idea was to make a hybrid of standard TT dial and buttons from Princess, however there is also a plexiglass plate inside the Princess dial which serves as light-guide to the buttons - this will be difficult to replace.
For now this challenge is not resolved. However, with kitchen project and tiles installation in the second apartment plus repairing of couple of vintage Yamaha CD-players in background, I didn’t have enough time to think through this task. For now Princess is installed in that second property and connected to my virtual phone network in single line mode.
Hello everyone…. My next project over the winter months is to upgrade my WE shoe box KSU to the 620A2 panel. I already have the modular intercom panel and power supply. If anyone has a 620A2 panel or the pink backboard (has 4 TBs and mushroom wire guides), I’d be interesting in buying. Thanks for checking. Been watching ebay with no luck.
Western Electric (not AT&T or ITT) 565 white. Was looking for one for quite some time, now I have it:
Restoration measures are pending, so the final pictures will follow.
Some time ago a nice condition WE 564 in yellow has arrived:
Now I need only Aqua Blue (-62) and Turquoise (-64) to complete the Western Electric color assortment of promoted and non-promoted colours for 1A2 business telephone sets.
Will keep on hunting...
P.S. These two are not of my favorite modification of 564/565 housing, i.e. without clear plexiglass escutcheon around the line buttons, but taking into account rare colors I can’t be to picky.
Part of my collecting tasks is to try to locate where the phone could be installed originally before it was stored for couple of decades on the attic or in the garage and finally moved to me. It’s not always easy. But it’s interesting.
What VLAN do these phones connect to ? LOL . I remember installing these behind many Rolm 7000 and Mitel pbx systems before Touch Tone was readily available . Closets full of 1A2 gear an diode matrix blocks and chasing down fhanthom ringing .
What VLAN do these phones connect to ? LOL . I remember installing these behind many Rolm 7000 and Mitel pbx systems before Touch Tone was readily available . Closets full of 1A2 gear an diode matrix blocks and chasing down fhanthom ringing .
Very neat installation:
Western Electric 551C KSU + Ascom 2030 PBX + 2x VoIP->ISDN gates
All installed on one wall in my home office room.
System under construction in basement will have:
2x Western Electric 584C panels + Ascom 2050 PBX (bigger) + ISDN gates + BT Link for iPhone integration into 1A2
we used mainly 584C and later Sanbar panels . Those were fun times on installs and techs took pride in their work . I remember walking around to all the phones and moving the yellow lead to the black and red on the phone , sometimes in hundreds of phones . The RCA building in Hollywood was one huge 1A2 install . It took us weeks and many coffee breaks , ha ha .
The reason for moving the lead was to bypass the capacitor on the network in the phone , it would stop pulsating dc . Phones were ITT 6 button ,10 button and 20 button sets
Actually, bypassing the capacitor was to work with diode matrices. In larger systems, pulsating wasn't an issue since bridged CO line ringing wasn't used much.
The RCA building in Hollywood was one huge 1A2 install . It took us weeks and many coffee breaks , ha ha .
Good old times... I saw those only in movies... Lieutenant “Columbo†pictured many of those everywhere: offices, rich residences, police stations... Call Directors of all sorts of colors with matching color garden hoses going God knows where under the tables. “Your wife is on the Line 2, Lt Columboâ€. Golden 1970s
We also installed a ROLM system in the A&M records building in Hollywood around 1975 , before ROLM came out with there Digital RP series phones . All single lines feeding into 1A2 mostly IT&T gear . We saw and heard many rock stars and a blast installing hundreds of key sets .
The reason for moving the lead was to bypass the capacitor on the network in the phone , it would stop pulsating dc . Phones were ITT 6 button ,10 button and 20 button sets
Pulsating dc is that the same as what we called Bell Tap up here in the north? We never had ringers in our key system sets except when had and old NE set or Logic set. Nearly all were AE sets which didn't have a ringer just a 10 volt buzzer.
Bell tap is a recognized telephone industry trouble term that has been around since the beginning of dial service. It refers to the fact that if the ringer and its associated network (and subscriber loop) are not set up correctly, when the switch hook is operated, or the rotary dial is used, the ringer will follow the opens/closures of the loop, making a tinkling sound. It can be cured by adjusting the bias spring, reducing the capacitance of the loop, and a few other things.
The other concept that seems to have gotten caught up in this discussion is the "straight line ringer vs common audible ringing" wiring schemes.
When used as a straight line ringer (bridged ringing) or used in a small "square" key system as a common ringer, the series capacitor (generally terminated on A and K of the network) is left in the ringer circuit. In the event that the installation gets so large and complicated that the ringing plan needs to be programmed for combinations and permutations of ringers and stations, a ringing matrix is installed. It uses diode logic to create multiple layers of ringers and lines. Since diodes pass DC and not AC, the DC-blocking capacitors are by-passed in each tel set. The resulting half-wave DC is then able to operate the ringers whenever generator is sent to a ringer or group of ringers, via the diodes. The ringers, which have bias, need to polarized properly for this scheme to work, so attention to the color code is essential when installing the system.
I believe that the "pulsating DC" referred to above is what's causing the confusion with bell-tap.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
Arthur what you say is true , but I have been in the interconnect phone industry since 1973 none of the techs I have worked along side of never used the term bell tap . That is the reason I stated it must be a regional term or a bell system term or my too many beers for to many years . LOL.
Bell tap was seen with rotary phones. A bad capacitor would cause the bell to "tap" when the phone was dialed..I never saw an AE phone with only a 10volt buzzer. All the ones i worked with had 100volt ringers.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
Bell Tap is what I have to do (sometimes, if I want to connect directly to PBX bridged ringer, not to the KSU generator) to make the US telephones ring on European lines. US has higher ringing voltage ~100-105V. European standard is 75V. Frequency is also different, but it’s a minor shift: 25Hz vs 20Hz, or Cycles as one says in the US. Normal US ringer will only vibrate on EU line, not touching the bells. To fix this, I have set the bias spring to lower catch (or release it). Bell has less mechanical resistance in this case and can ring on lower voltage (though in reality I also have to play with the coil position on the core: fine-tuning the optimal magnetic transmission with matches). As far as I understand or heard, this option was included into all Bell System ringers’ designs to allow using them on remote rural lines, where ringing voltage can go down significantly due to the length of the loop. Hovewer, this setting makes the ringer “Bell Taping†on rotary dial phones (I have one Stromberg-Carlson 554 which does exactly so), when one dials out.
We used to adjust the the bias spring first and if that didn't work we could reverse the two leads on the ringer. And as a last resort we would add a 1A thermistor in series with the ringer.
Sam the AE 186 sets out here only had a 10v buzzer no ringer. The Logic sets had ringers but we never used the ringer.
We used to adjust the the bias spring first and if that didn't work we could reverse the two leads on the ringer. And as a last resort we would add a 1A thermistor in series with the ringer.
Didn’t try to reverse the coil sides, but probably it’s a decent option: some phones start to ring with reduced spring tension, some - not. But this is an old issue for now anyway: I feed all phones from ringing generator now, so the issue doesn’t exist.
WE 565 Pink - this one will require a lot of color restoration and fading removal on the front side - and Nothern Telecom/ITT light gray don’t know their numbering - analog of 564.
Some of the colored sets from 2565 series:
Chocolate Brown ITT 2564 with matching color brown Precision Components 4A Speakerphone. Base of the set will be changed to WE 2565 to accommodate speakerphone service. Unfortunately PC-108A loudspeaker was cracked on the way to me. Will have to figure out how to restore the missing corner piece of plastic. I’m crying, still... it was such a luck to find both parts in different places almost at the same time and in non-cracked condition. But long way did its work.
Finally have an ivory 4A from WE and a 2565 body with original design (transparent) faceplate. Very nice looking combination.
I call this phone “Richard Nixonâ€, hope you know why. Though Richard Nixon never had 4A speakerphone in his Oval Office.
Cherry Red WE 2851. This was difficult to find, though it is WE factory paintwork. But all in all well done. I saw recently a similar model in Aqua Blue, but that was sold for crazy money.
And finally now I can open a branch office of Bell System - the logo is ready
There was one US Marshall that I had a service call because his speaker phone wasn't working. I would take the transmitter and move it away from the speaker and it worked great!
I would get the same service call three months later...
Question: On the picture of the Richard Nixon phone...Is that a Type Element from an IBM Selectric I see?
I don’t know what happened to all of the pictures posted here before, but appears they are not visible anymore. This is sad, since reposting them will be a challenge!
Nevertheless, hope everyone is good here. Haven’t seen any activity on this board for a while. I hope 1A2 enthusiasm hasn’t died.
My system upgrade activities and stations restoration has been suspended for a while. But I’m too far already into my collection to stop it.
Some of the questions to other collectors here, as well as updates on my plans.
I’ve put a lot of effort into restoring my beige Call Director to a reasonable condition. I was able to find and get from Canada 2 NOS key strips for it to replace the cloudy old key strip I had on it and an apparatus blank in the third position. Now the only part which is missing is paper insert under the faceplate. My first idea was to produce it on my own with brown paper or golden foil. However, original paper insert will make it way better looking and authentic. In case if anyone has a stock of spare faceplate inserts for 18 button Call Director with old-style key I will appreciate a lot that person helping me in acquiring one:
My “Big System†plan now is close to having all the components needed to extend my 1A2 service from WE 551C KSU with 4 lines to a panel based system with 2x WE 584C panels, giving me 26 lines in total, 17 out of which will be serving the Call Director needs to light up all the buttons.
I have decided to build the equipment side of 66-type connection blocks utilizing Reliable Electric R66-A units. They are slightly larger in size vs. standard WE 66-blocks and should be more convenient for punching down the cross-connect jumper wires. 2 panels will utilize 6 full R66-A blocks (3 Amphenol outputs of 584C take 5 pairs for each line including CO T & R, station side T & R, A and A1, L & LG, plus one pair for common audible for each line). Four of the blocks are already here and the two others are on their way. Station cabling side will be accommodated with a half size blue board.
I was lucky to take some wholesale amount of NIB SanBar 4000 and WE 400H refurbished KTU to fill the panels at a good bargain price. For now they are still stored in original boxes.
I feel a bit now as not being finally in a shortage of 82B connection blocks both in “old†and “new†cover design, so can sleep well without chasing after each one appearing on eBay.
Only issue with bringing it up and running with all the other components (beside time which is always in shortage) is the need to run 25 pair cabling throughout the house, which I currently rent. So every additional hole in the concrete flooring and tiles brings me closer to the risk of paying a huge repair compensation to the landlord when I decide to move out. My current system compactly occupies a wall in my office room and cabling is just run to the two stations connected directly to it. Still in thoughts how to make it with minimal damage to the house.
It all started with one Western Electric 564 telephone set in black from 1956 which I acquired here in Germany on eBay. It all developed into the whole rainbow of colors of 564/565, 2564/2565, 851/2851, the Call Director, ringers, buzzers, 66-type blocks, KSU... I don’t know what I would do with my collection if I decide to move one day. It will be a full truck load of different telephone stuff.
Sad news: Cowboy Frank is selling his house. It looks his phones started to appear on eBay. I managed to get one 2565 in white from there. Really sad, his pictures from different WE 1A2 phone sets fitted into interior of that house inspired me a lot to start the collection and come to the idea of having the running 1A2 system at home. Hope at least those pictures will stay on his website. Sad, sad, good things are becoming history inevitably.
"Sad, sad, good things are becoming history inevitably."
That's the way of the world.....
Re' the popularity of 1A2 in Europe. I have an old dear friend who married a British gal and who lives in the UK now. He and his wife wee visiting and she saw the 1A2 phones in the house. "Cagney & Lacey phones" she exclaimed.
According to her, the old American TV show "Cagney and Lacey" (about 2 women police detectives) was incredibly popular in the UK in the '80s. And also popular was the distinctive look of their office telephones, which were apparently very different from office phones of the time in the UK.
I'm not sure if this was also the case in Germany.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
I moved into Germany only 3 years ago. Not sure what was popular here in 1970-1980, but I assume many TV series from the US were in top charts here as well.
I personally know 1A2 business telephones from 1970s TV series like “Columboâ€. Where rich residences around LA and the offices were full of multiline sets, Call Directors and all the shiny lamps.
Europe was way back in my view in terms of overall design of telephones (both technically, but also in terms of industrial design of the sets). No European country had the size and resources as the Bell System monopoly in the US. And as R&D dollars are coming from revenues, the difference can be easily explained. Dreyfuss’s 500 design from 1949 looks decent even today, if you look on majority of European phones from that time and later they will pretty much look like from pre-war times. Not saying it is bad, just not what I’m specifically interested in. I don’t think anything decent appeared in Europe before ISDN came into play. But that was already the time of cheap plastic items lasting for a few years before they disappear.
I’m pretty sure 1A2 is not so popular in Europe, because in Germany I know only 2 people other than me, who have something to do with these phones. Out of 80 million it is a negligible percent.
For me it is more about the impressions I have from those childhood times watching movies with these fantastic phones. Plus their unmatched quality and restorability along with the fact that I can do everything with these gadgets, unlike newer ones where no documentation, spare parts or software are available.
P.S. 1A2 is my beloved system to admire visually. To produce dial tones, I have an electronic PBX system from Switzerland designed around 1987-1989. That was decent as well, but mainly in the utilitarian way. But that company is gone as well.
Not sure if anyone is still alive on this thread, but I have another reason to be proud:
NOS Stromberg-Carlson Call Director has arrived today from VERY OLD stock. Appears to be kept in the box for years in a very humid place - mainly all paper parts are affected by that. Unfortunately NOS mint faceplate inserts in the factory envelope are also spoiled. Need to make a professional replica of those somewhere.
Other than that - all plastic is fresh from the press and never saw sunlight.
That's the later model Call Director. The earlier ones had the small buttons. They worked very well and as i recall the first binder appeared on screw terminals in the set - every wire....
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
The one with older buttons I also have. It’s on the picture above on this page. Both are with triple Amphenol connectors at the end of manly 75-pair cord. I would imagine what a challenge to connect all 75 pairs on screws... This one is manufactured in 1982, so it is a very late model. However, Stromberg-Carlson kept the transparent faceplate with paper insert, while Western Electric switched to solid plastic coloured faceplates on Call Directors long before. To me those solid plastic faceplates are looking very cheap. But both Call Directors I own are fortunately with that old transparent acrylglass faceplates. The drawback of this later model is the plastic handset lever (hook) instead of shiny metal one on original Call Directors, but this is a way of cost reduction appering towards 1980-s when telephones were not longer a luxury item. I have the same on Stromberg-Carlson 554 wall model - dark acryl hook instead of metal. Intrestingly, wiring diagram on triple Amp cords are kept consistent with standard 5-line models. So what I need is just to connect the Amp #1 of Call Director to my regular 5-line 1A2 plug and the first key strip works + ringer, etc. work perfectly fine.
"Intrestingly, wiring diagram on triple Amp cords are kept consistent with standard 5-line models. So what I need is just to connect the Amp #1 of Call Director to my regular 5-line 1A2 plug and the first key strip works + ringer, etc. work perfectly fine."
That was the whole idea with 1A2 - consistency and the ability to upgrade. You had 5 line phones and business got better- runs another cable and change to the next model.
When the K-10 (830?) model was introduced you could upgrade from a 5 line to a 9 line with minimal wiring changes. Unplug the 564 and plug in in the 9 line and it worked! Of course your intercom was now on line 5 and not on line 9, but that was incidental, Move the intercom, remove the A1 leads from lines 2-4 and you were in business to add more lines. Buzzer and ringer leads stayed the same.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
During my brief career at New York Telephone in 1967, I worked with an installer who had many years of service. He was always being asked to work overtime but would inquire if call director work was involved. If it was,he refused. He explained that between pulling 75 (or 150)pair cable through underfloor ducts,and terminating thousands of pairs, it wasn’t worth the headache. This was lower Manhattan, some jobs could be for over a hundred sets.
I would agree. I just thought about drilling the holes in the floors and walls for standard 25-pair cabling which is not thin. But for connecting the Call Director outside of the room where the key system is located in the basement, I would need to drill holes where can bring a hand through.
Well... I don’t think I would ever get so famous as Phyllis Diller and I’m not sure I would survive till my 95yo, but I can’t imagine what may happen to a 1A2 system even after 40+ years of service, except the direct nuclear bomb explosion nearby.
My system at home is 38 years old. I've had to replace one or two tone dials and a few lamps. I've also replaced a few sets (some of which were used when I installed them) - sometimes because I wanted another look and sometimes because something legitimately broke.
But overall - it just runs and runs and runs...
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
I assume with TT dials - those just drifted out of proper food frequency tune. I never had it on 2565/2564 sets, but very often on Princess dials. In this case I re-tune the coils with frequency meter which takes 5 minutes. Never had really “dead†TT dial.
Lamps is a kind of obvious consumable, so I have some stock of 100+ 51A lamps in case the next 50 years I have some of those burnt out.
Today was the first effort to produce a paper insert for the Call Director faceplate with “old style†buttons: I have chosen the only brown carton I had which appears to be too thick and too dark. Anyway here the shape was more important than color. I think I will replace it with either golden or white insert. Does anyone know what was normally supplied as a faceplate inserts colors for beige Call Directors? Some side projects in progress:
Thanks Professor Shadow. I use that source for downloading BSP’s. But this time I found a section with Western Electric “cards†covering much wider set of items. Finally was able to know what a 108 varistor is and what are characteristics.
Not surprisingly - the third mat (after silver and gold) supplied with light beige Call Directors is muted beige! Not helping much in identifying the replacement color from currently available, so I will park with either silver or cream white (was supplied with consoles identical to Call Director layout.
An unusual addition to my collection. This is a full 1A2 compatible speakerphone set / conferencing PhoneBeam unit from Platronics. I don't know if anyone else released an 1A2 compatible equipment, because by the tyme of Bell System break up the 1A2 was already at the end of it's "commercial life" (not talking about useful life, since it can last forever, but it is mostly what was heavily promoted and pushed to the market by the telephone companies at that time).
The unit looks neat and combines in the base unit a set of control buttons and LEDs, base unit microphone, volume control, loudspeaker, infrared receiver for remote transmitter and a charging bay for it. So basically the base unit can be used alone with only operating the microphone it has on the front panel. This makes it pretty much comparable with WE 4a Speakerphone with 2 control options - "On/Off" and "Mute", but muting button is electronically locked, so once you press it once momentarily the mute (and corresponding mute LED) will be activated permanently till you press it again to return into the conversation mode. So no need anymore for the quarter buck coin on those long boring teleconferences.
I managed to get the base unit new in the box. Label states it is made in Japan and I assume one of the stickers is a manufacture date code - week 49 of 1988.
The unit itself appears to be developed around 1983 as all the user manuals and installation guides have this date printd on them. So basically released just before divestiture. The unit was released with several connection options for different types of telephone sets, but of course the most interesting one for me was a 1A2 multi-line compatible. This means the base unit has a normal 50-pin Amphenol connector on the end of the cable, which plugs into any standard 82B connection block directly replacing the plugs of 680A transmitter, 108A loudspeaker and the famous "option plug". According to the installation manual, you only need to disconnect the old power supply to the 4A speakerphone first, since the unit has its own 16V DC power supply to connect to the mains. Well, it is designed like that and it works like that. I believe there is also an option to connect additional wires inside the base unit to use couple of relays inside for controlling the lamps or ringer cutoff, so basically the same as 4A'a option plug functionality.
Sorry for the mess of cables. This still serves as a permanent "temporary" setup.
I don't think they have sold a lot of this units, since originally I have lost the hope to find this neat tiny IR transmitter unit to my NOS base piece. However later the spirit of eBay was very kind to me and showed up and auction for 5 PhoneBeam base units, all dirty and old with cut cables and 2 of those had a transmitting unit on them. So what could one do - just buy all of them since I'm not sure the seller had any hope for anyone else to be interested in this stuff. As transmitter has a battery pack inside, being 30 years old I never expected that to be in good condition since all these batteries start leaking at some point creating a mess on all metal parts and PCBs. For those who saw any of WE 2872A2M Touch-A-Matics with the backup battery for memory unit on the bottom of the set - you know what I mean. So my best guess was, if one out of the two transmitter unit works or appears to be reparable - I'm already lucky. But actually this time I was more than lucky: first of all the box came with 5 bases and 3 transmitters, not 2. Of course they all were damaged around the batteries as expected with salt and oxidation all over the place. But I removed the batteries packs and checked those with a normal 7V power supply and guess what - all three were operational without any repair, coupling, restoring. Either this is about all old electronics which was just built to last, or specifically because Japanese know something special about how to make electronics. Anyway, next I disassembled the battery packs (interestingly enough white paint print on batteries says they were assembled in Mexico and the cells themselves stamped to be made in Singapore, not in Japan - probably this is why they failed after just 30 years). This is how internal cells look like:
This shape of NiCd cells is extremely difficult to find (though I recently have found a pack of similar cells in the UK - will try them out later). So for the first experimental unit I used two cells of Li-polymer subminiature batteries of 3.7V - so in total 7.4V nominal - very close to original 7.2V of six cells by 1.2V. Those 2 fit perfectly into the pack shell leaving plenty of free space and they are much lighter (actually I will probably need to add a metal dummy weight to it since the new unit is so light in weight that it probably may have issues with pressing itself down properly in the charging bay. But anyway - the final design is still under construction. In comparison with old 90 mAh pack my LiPo setup delivers unprecedented 240 mAh of charge which apparently should move the limit of single continious use of receiver (in conversation mode) from stated by manufacturer 3 hours to something which I believe exceeds the 8 hours working day.
This unit is interesting since it uses an unusual technology for establishing a voice link between the transmitter and the base unit (no, it is not Bluetooth - forget about this in 1983). It uses an infrared carrier to transmit voice from the remote unit to the receiver of the base station. So anywhere whithin the same room an invisible IR light (similar to the one used for regular remote controls for TV sets, etc.) will deliver the voice over the optical link. The transmitter has a microphone and about 5 or 6 LEDs under the red cover on the top edge. I think this was a strategic choice made by Plantronics, since would they use any radio frequency carrier for this set (which appears to be an easy choice), they would have to apply for a license/approval from FCC back in 1983 which I believe could add some $$$ and time lost on the introduction of the new unit. As the transmitter inside has only a relatively small and primitive PCB I do not think this system use any kind of digital conversion. I assume it is an analog transmison, probably utilizing some sort of FM for the voice over IR light.
The transitter has only one 2 position switch which allows to activate and deactivate the speakerphone. So if you have the proper line preselected on your 1A2 connected phone - you can answer it remotely from the transmitter anywehere in your room/office. As well as disconnect the call when finished. This unit was marketed as the first "echoless" conferencing unit, since apparenly by placing the microphone directly in front of the person to talk you eliminate all sorts of echo. It also has a metal clips to put it into you shirt pocet and fix it there for conversation. Thus a microphone and transmitting LEDs look out of your pocket and all the rest is hidden inside.
Anyway, this thing appears to be a one of a kind example of using alternative technology to deliver telephone advanced functionality, is a nice technological artifact and besides all of this - works perfectly in my 1A2 setup. Of course it is not so fundamentally built and recognizable like WE 4A speakerphone with all of the plastic color choices (which appear to go crazy in price on eBay nowadays), but it nice and it works.
This is how business key systems looked like in Italy. Designed ~1958 in Milan:
This is a secretary-director set for use with one external line and one intercom line. There was an extended version with 2 outside lines and 6 or 4 internal extension stations (with numbered signaling keys in the front).
A pair of Italian “videophones†from 1970s. These were actually door video intercoms:
Going through some inventory today. I definitely have too much stuff here.
The next big thing will be to put together a larger system based on 2 Western Electric 584C panel and progress with the wiring across the house. The current 4 lines from 551C KSU look just ridiculous on the Call Direction which also accumulated over time. A lot of work ahead to develop the routing for cables trough the house taking into account all walls are brick & mortar and floors are reinforced concrete.
Another thing I have started to think about is reproducing the color buttons for Call Director as those continuously proved to be made of Unobtainium.
I was able to order some purple ones and they are on their way and will try reproduce a molding to make those in small quantities as reproduction.
Ha ha... I think the Marshal was clever: if those service calls were “freeâ€, i.e. included into the monthly charge from Bell System for all the lamps, buzzers, buttons, etc. etc. Then you don’t pay more for each extra call.
Probably this was his logic: if we pay these guys so much for each lamp in my Call Director, I want them to work like hell and check the lamps/speakerphone/etc. every month.
Otherwise his secretary could be instructed “to fix†the speakerphone for her boss.
Sorry I had to cut our conversation short yesterday.
I will give you some advice on one subject you mentioned, and post it here for others who might need to know:
You intend to use 66B-25 blocks as the output connections for your 584C panels. Those blocks did not originally come with brackets that would allow them to sit proud of the backboard. (allowing the cables to be installed under the blocks, with the conductors brought out from behind the blocks, and through the fanning strips along the sides) the way the 89B brackets are intended for use behind 66M blocks.. To install the cables alongside the blocks makes a sloppy installation, so installers would fabricate "stand-offs" to allow the blocks to be held off the back boards. We used short (0.75") lengths of plastic tubing (PVC electrical conduit, typically) and sandwiched them under the 66 blocks, one at each corner, with the mounting screws run through the tubing.
In later years, several manufacturers (including WE) sold factory-made stand-offs for the 66B blocks. Some were plastic brackets, and some were aluminum.
Specially for Professor Shadow: this is why Carter never had a speakerphone attached to his white call director. He probably experienced the same issue as the Marshal appointed by him.
Hi Arthur,
Yes, I have already experienced the issue described by you with those R66B blocks (I have one piece since I was building the 551C based system, but I finally neatly punched the station cables directly to the KSU 66-block and the installation looks really good). Not sure why people like to duplicate 66 block externally for Shoe Box type systems, I think they were designed to be self contained with not much external boards/equipment.
Now with the 584C panels I cannot avoid placing the 66 blocks next to them. My idea was to mount the blocks on the same 23†rack as 584C panel - just by putting two horizontal rails below the panels and then mount R66B on those rails. Thus the 66 block will be at the same distance from the backboard as the panels and all cabling will be kept behind them.
I think I saw such installations somewhere or at least such rails were used for auxiliary equipment mounting like dial intercoms, lamp extenders etc.
Now as I still have to figure out the layout of the main backboard I’m going to have, I have an alternative option of using Reliable Electric R66 blocks. Those are much bigger than standard 66B - I believe one can punch them down blindly with eyes closed and in complete darkness. And they have the plastic base behind for placing them with some spacing from the backboard. I really like those especially for the main equipment backboard where you may need a comfortable access to individual pins for testing the panels without the risk of causing short circuit by a screwdriver or a probe.
In that case I will move the standard “small†R66B blocks to the secondary backboard. The plan is that the equipment, panels and the main distribution frame will be located in the communications room in the basement. From there a 100 pair cable will run to the secondary distribution frame at the attic (closet). Because I have now the 4 Call Directors which I want to spread evenly across the house, having a full double set of all five 25-pair multiples in the basement and in the attic will give me the necessary flexibility to run any combination of lines to any station depending on the best cable routing situation.
For now I plan to have on the first 5 positions the incoming lines. The second row of buttons will be reserved for special “hot line†or “private line†type service for the most frequently called destinations. The other three could be just extra lines for now before I can find a better application for them. Because I still need to keep other 6-button stations fully functional, so I don’t want to put any incoming lines on buttons which are not accessible from all stations.
But it is only a plan for now, and a lot to do to make the implementation of it without disrupting the current service from 551C KSU. That one will be later moved to my office at the company to be used there.
An important mission has been completed today on the rare phone which waited a couple of years in the queue for restoration. The end result brought me in tears... of happiness.
This is original (not painted) Western Electric 564 set with rose pink shell dated 12-65. It came to me more than 2 years ago with heavy discoloration - only by a strip of intact plastic where the line designation strip has been covering it from sun, one could see the actual color.
Last two days was a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper as I do not use chemical process or retrobrite on color sets. But the result worth the effort. This is for sure the most beautiful telephone set I ever saw. I have to change the coiled cord as it was also totally discolorated - but the similar one (I believe from trimline set as the conductor colors were for line cord (green, red, yellow, black) not for handset cord (red, black, white, white). However, it fits well. Also the button strip with buttons, escutcheon and the finger wheel have been replaced. Though I used not a generic replica finger wheel for it, but one of my 2 NOS Western Electric finger wheels dated 2-69. So it matches the set. I will try to see if I still have the picture of patient before the "second birth" procedure - I find, will post it here for comparison of what a difference a good resoration can give on discolored plastic.
I have embarked on a new project. I’m currently rewiring the message recording console from 1ESS I believe (not sure what the model number is, but they appear quite often on eBay sold as grey “Call Directorsâ€, though they won’t work on 1A2).
This console has originally short mounting cord with different 180 degrees triple Amphenol connector. On mine it’s cut off. So the cord is only about 3’ long.
If anyone has an idea on the source of any length, any color, any termination type or just cut mounting cord D120A I believe - flexible one with 120 connectors or 60 pairs, I will be glad to acquire it or trade for something.
I know it’s a kind of rare thing from unobtainium, but sometimes a wonder happens and someone finds it in the garbage bin from scrapped call director.
Of course if not available I can wire with existing short cord or alternatively use 3 standard 20 pair cords from 564 sets and pass them through a single PVC insulation tube, but before I spend some good hours resoldering the 240 connections (as I will need to work through both sides of the cord) - I will test my like here if I can find a spare D120A cable.
This is what I have as a current cord:
This is where this console was originally used:
And this is how it normally appears on eBay (this one is not mine):
Another restoration story. This time in 50 shades of yellow.
This phone was for sure the most sun burned in my collection. I have another yellow 564, but that one is of newer housing without a lucite escutcheon above the line buttons, which I really like. I bought this one on eBay with no hope left to ever trace a yellow 564/565 in a better condition. So as I had a spare yellow phone, I could experiment with this one as much as I want without too much sadness if the restoration doesn't work out well or I destroy the set.
I have a feeling that this set was installed for about a decade in a greenhouse in California, as sun faded it all around (even on the back side and under the handset). Fading made yellow a very brownish dark orange color.
Even worse - the housing had 2 very old cracks on the front side, which are well visible on the semi-sanded set.
So removing this deep discoloration took a lot of plastic material to remove. Having ABS chemically welded and repolished on the front surface gave satisfactory results in my view. It is not 100% invisible, but taking into account it was not a hairline crack but a wide dirty inside deformed large crack - the result is not bad at all. You need to know it was there to recognize and find the place.
Besides other things on this set, I have to replace the line key strip as the hold button shaft spring was broken on this set. I have cleaned thoroughly the original Western Electric 9C all metal dial dated 6-65 which was full of dirty black oil (appears someone decided to use a shot of WD-40 on it at some point). After alcohol rinsing, cleaning and drying, and the final lubrication the dial is going nice and smooth again. I will need to change the mounting cord on this set. The existing one is painted satin silver over shiny black cord. Paint is not integral and doesn't look good. I will later may opt to take the cord out, clean out the paint and use it on a real black set. For now it is left as it is.
I still have to work on the handset - the one on the picture is from another set (modular) just for appearance. Original handset is factory painted yellow on yellow. I must admit now, that it is easier to remove heavy UV discoloration by sanding, than to clean out the WE refurbish paint. It is a disaster to sand and not really coming off by mild solvents to remove chemically. I will have to rub it for more.
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. However, tuning the coils on Princess phone resolves the issue. My black Princess now dials out without an issue and I now have two cheap pocket multimeters with frequency meter, specifically for this purpose.![[Linked Image from s14.postimg.org]](https://s14.postimg.org/3q5lbknxd/0494336_F-_EB7_C-42_B8-_B0_F6-51_AFAD966266.jpg)
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