atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems Can anyone tell me why...

Well,

Once again I've proven that there is no finite number of times I can be wrong about something.

Nothing wrong with the alarm panel, except my diagnosis.

Moving all the SLT's after the line card cleared the problem. Also made the voice quality on the 2565's better (There used to be an intermittent scratching sound on them).

Many thanks Arthur.... I'll be implementing the A lead control as soon as Mr. $ says OK. Ed previously pointed me to sandman as a source.

Thanks to all -

Matt

Matt -

Depending on the type & age of the phone, it may be possible to convert the set to a lead control without spending any money. Let us know the model# of the sets you want to convert & we'll get you the wiring conversion.

Sam

Hey Sam -

Model #'s.... hmmmmm.

That could be a problem. Here's a description:

1) Standard beige rotary wall phone we all grew up with. It's been retrofitted with a modular receiver cord, and the "slide on" mounting bracket, but the guts are pure 1960's vintage or earlier. Couldn't find a model # on it, but it is stamped "228" on the back. Metal switchhook. Google says model 554.

2) Trimline... old school style with the round buttons, and (I believe) the first generation of modular handset cords. The connectors are about 1" wide by 1/4" tall. 12 button, light bulb illumination, wall mount. If needed I'll pull it down to see if I can find a model #.

3) The payhone. Pushbutton, WE. Has a 2000/2002/2004 Olympics vault cover, but I don't know if it's original. I don't even know where to begin to find the model # on this.

HTH and TIA!

- Matt

Well I know the trimline because we used to have one...big weird clear connector on it...
I would say the wall phone is a 554.

Matt -

On Standard Single Line Sets, when you went on-hook, you opened both Tip & Ring. All you really need to do is open one of them to break the circuit, so "A-Lead Control" requires first making one of those contacts spare and then using it to provide a closure for the A & A1 leads.

I can't speak to the Payphone (having no experience with them). The other two however...

On the Trimline:

Move the Brown Switch hook wire from C to G
Move the Yellow Switch hook wire from L2 to 3

Move one of the Black Ringer wires from 3 to C
Move the other Black Ringer wire from G to C

Move the Red Mounting cord wire from L2 to C
Move the Black Capacitor strap from L2 to L1 The other side goes to A)

Your A-A1 closure (the Black & Yellow of the Line cord) will be between G & 3

On the 554 Wall set:

Move the White switch hook lead from F to C
Move the Brown switch hook lead from C to G

Remove the Red Ringer lead from L2 & the Black ringer lead from G (they can be wired to the common bell from the ksu)

Tip goes to F
Ring goes to L1
A goes to L2
A1 goes to G

Double check these connections. It's probably been 25 or 30 years since I did one of these.

Sam

Sam -

Makes perfect sense, thanks for the breakdown. Will try it out today and let ya know.

Thanks!
Matt

PS

The Buttset has become inde... indespense...indespensa...

I can't do anything without it.

Sam -

I've got most of the trimline done, and A & A1 control is functional (I've not yet connected it to the KSU, but it checks out with my ohmmeter).

One problem though - I couldn't rewire the ringer as instructed - here is what I've got coming from the ringer:

Black - L1
Red - Destination terminal unlabeled, but it's the other end of the capacitor (i.e. the end that does not have the strap on it).
Gray/Red - Unused
Gray - B

There is also some faint noise on the receiver when the switch hook is held down... could this be related to the as of yet undone bell rewiring?

Thanks!
Matt

Matt -

OOPS! A correction on my part. If you remove the capacitor from the circuit you cannot wire the bell across T&R it has to go to a Common Bell connection off the KSU. I'm going to adjust my earlier post.

I'll have to look at the prints to get you the ringer info, but I would think off the top of my head that the Red & Black leads should go right to the B1/R1 leads in the KSU.

Ed - Jump in here at any time and correct me please.

Sam

Thanks Sam...!

I'll wait on the trimline and proceed with the 554. I've got 4 pairs to the trimline, only 3 are used (T/R, L/LG, A/A1)... so if I need to run the bell back to the KSU it won't be a problem. Truth be told I could forego the ringer entirely, as there are only 6 other phones on the same floor.

Another cup of coffee, and off to the 554. Do you think I'll run into the same issue there? I've only 2 pairs for it.

- Matt

Sam -

One other question - one of the lamp feeds goes to "3". Wouldn't using this terminal for A or A1 cause an issue?

One other thing; I have a Melco C-12 for intercom use. One of the leads is labeled as being grounded when off hook. I'm assuming this is only the case if one of the keysets is off hook, not for SLT's... regardless I can't get a ground reading in either case. Just thought I'd throw this out there in the event it could be used to determine off hook.

Thanks -
Matt