atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems Project 1A2: Phase I complete.

Thanks Arthur - I'll try that when I hook up the remaing 2.5 66 blocks.

John -

As for Phase II - yes, it's close. But to finish Phase I, I have to figure out what to do with the CO lines. It's a real mess right now. Basically they both come in to the house about 5 feet from where I mounted the backboard and connect to a series of whatever you call the things that have been around forever.... square 4 screw terminal gizmos that the single line phones connect to.

One line has DSL, and I didn't want filters all over the house, so I put one filter on it which then feeds all phones for that line. Actually the first thing fed from the filtered DSL line is my alarm panel, which then feeds the rest of the house.

The other is my business line. The wiring is all jury rigged together, a real rats nest.

Now that I have the backboard and associated equipment, I need to overhaul the incoming CO lines, outgoing/incoming alarm feeds, as well as the outgoing single line phone wiring.

Is there some sort of device to tie all this together neatly? As I type this, it occurs to me a 66 block would probably be just the thing.

Unless there is a better, more generally preferred solution.

It just occured to me you guys havn't seen the end result of all your help yet.

The way I see it, there should be at least one 1A2 keyset available within seven feet of any other 1A2 set.

Why should I have to go through all the trouble of shouting as much as 10 feet, all the way to the other side of the room to get someones attention, when all that need happen is to pick up an extension and buzz them?

I'm not there yet, but here is ground zero.

The living room:

https://img248.imageshack.us/img248/4958/11030719091jt9.jpg

Facing that couch is the other:

https://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1407/11030719102hb8.jpg

The Office:

https://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5421/11030719111nb7.jpg

The Dog:

https://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4048/11030719101gj6.jpg

(I snapped that pic right when I told her it's a good thing they didn't get around to wireless 1A2 keysets, or she would have one mounted on her back).

The Comdial Sam pointed me to is down in the basement - I'll post pics of that after I mount the rackmount 1A2 on the backboard.

"Now that I have the backboard and associated equipment, I need to overhaul the incoming CO lines, outgoing/incoming alarm feeds, as well as the outgoing single line phone wiring. Is there some sort of device to tie all this together neatly? As I type this, it occurs to me a 66 block would probably be just the thing."

Matt:

You need to take all the incoming CO lines (how many are there?) and make what is known as a "multiple" block. You should use a 66M50 block.

Take some single-pair X-conn wire and starting at the top left, terminate the wire at the top pair of terminals (row A, pins 1 & 2). Then loop about two inches of wire, and using the other end of the punchdown tool, (the end that allows looping rather than cutting,) multiple the same pair on subsequent sets of pins, using 6 pairs of pins on row A, total. Then flip the tool over and cut off the wire.

Start over at the next pair of pins, and do the same thing. If you have 4 lines, you could do 6 pairs of terminals per line, as an example. Sometimes we use BL/W for the first loop wiring, then OR/W, etc, so that you can instantly tell what circuit you're working on.

Then take your incoming wire that has the CO lines on it, and terminate it on row B, pins 1&2 for line one, row B, pins 13&14 for line two, etc. Now the dial tone is present at all pins at and below the incoming wire. Then on the right side of the split block, attach your single-pair X-conn's, run them to whatever destination you want them on (incoming pair to 1A2 KSU, wire to external bell, Y/SL pair on a tel set cable, for line ringer, etc.)

Finally, use bridging clips to pass the DT across the block. To troubleshoot, pull off pins until the trouble clears. This gives you a bunch of appearances of each line.

You can directly terminate smaller (quad, 3- and 4-pair) inside wires on the right side of the multiple block. You will not get thrown out of the club for doing that.

For an alarm panel connection, take the incoming DT wire for the particular DT you wish to use for the alarm, and before terminating it on row B of the block, go behind the block, and B-connect or Scotchlok it to the R/G pair of a quad (or BL/W of a 4-pair) and run that wire to the panel. That is the DT feed. The DT FROM the panel comes back on the Y/BK or the OR/W and it becomes the left feed on the block on row B at the normal position.

In the real world, we never use the listed number, but rather a fax line or other unlisted trunk, for the alarm circuit. Also, wiring it this way helps to disguise the connection, so miscreants cannot instantly see the connection, and rip it out.

Cool -

There's just 2 incoming. One for home, one for work. I'll do as you recc.

Thanks Arthur!

- Matt

Matt-
I like that setup! The phones look really cool!

Thanks Jeff!

In other news, MOH is now working! I took out the K403, and noticed the jumper solder joints were broken (don't know how I missed that before). Fixed that, still no MOH - then I put jumper 2 on the K400E to F-H, and viola. I'm sure it was a combo the the two, as I've tried H-H and F-H before and it made no difference; the broken solder joint on the circuit trace must have been the root cause.

Thanks all, many of you have tried to help me with this - kudos to Sam, Ed and Arthur and Ken, and everyone else as well.

Now I just have to wait for someone to call so I can put them on hold. I don't think I've ever called someone's house before and got MOH. I'm pretty sure from now on, everyone who calls will be put on hold for a few seconds at least.

Sam - I'm studying the manual for the tracker. Havn't used it yet, as I don't want to before I know how to operate it and risk damaging it -Unless it lets you open up it's cover to test it's own components - but if it works as the manual says (and I'm sure it does).... I'll probably be wanting to purchase it from ya.

I've never seen any test equipment that reliably let you test components in circuit... and there is at least a 50/50 chance of ruining a component to take it out for testing, and then of course you can never be sure you didn't ruin it putting it back in.

Matt -

Check out the components on a 400 card- that'll give you an idea what you can and can't do with it.

Sam

Roger that will do. I also have a couple intercom cards to check out.

One other thing - I can't find the post I made about this, but I sent a pic of the guts of my 2565 HK asking what the silver box by the bell was.

Ed answered back it was a buzzer - but there was a fair amount of debate about what voltages it was compatible with.

I used orange/yellow instead of green/yellow for buzzers this time. Turns out the "silver box" was hooked to orange/yellow.

Works great at 18vac. In fact I was pretty shocked at first, as I hadn't installed a buzzer in it yet... and here it was, buzzing away.

Matt, do you have any more pictures?