atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems Project 1A2: Phase I complete.

Matt -

Put a butt set across the MOH output. If you've got Music there then look for it on pins 3&18 of line 1.

If you don't have it in those 2 places then you'll never get it.

Also - what kind of line card are you using. You'll need an ITT400E or Sanbar 4200 or WE 4200G or H. A 400D won't work. In order for the card to have MOH it needs little gold "fingers" on pins 3 &18 to make contact with the backplane. If you don't have those, the Music will never get through the card to the line.

Sam

Hi Sam -

I'll test it there, I've tried it across the tuner and got sound, but never tried the terminals.

It's a K403 MOH card, and a K400E line card. One thing I was wondering was if I have the K400E punched down properly or not. I'll PM you a link to the manual for this card, and perhaps you could have a look. I can't tell if jumper 2 should be F-H or H-H. Also there is a jumper on the K403, and I don't know how it should be set.

Sam and Aurthur, and anybody else with an opinion, question about punch down. In SWB territory, and pretty much everywhere else I've seen 'older' work, the pairs come in UNDER the clip and 'wrap up', as opposed to coming in OVER the clip and 'wrapping down', so to speak. I think I figured out why, it's easier to punch a group of pairs down going top to bottom on the block, if the pairs come in under and 'wrap up'. Yes, No, B/S? First time I saw it, I had already learned to come in on top and 'wrap down'. Confused the h-ll out of me when my pair colors were off half a pair, until I figured out what was happening!
And the cable color code 'ditty' is not as entertaining as the resistor color code. I learned 2 ways, Air Force: Biloxi Booze Rots Our Young Guts, But Vodka Goes Well. Other way: Bad Boys R-pe Our Young Girls, But Violet Gives Willingly. Oh yeah, Black, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Gray, White. (And Silver, Gold) Or 0 thru 9
John C. (Not Garand)

I punched that way too when I first started. The reason I did it that way was I thought every lead should go between whatever you call the plastic "ears" that are labeled with the function of that row. If you punch from the top down, the first lead comes in over the top of the first plastic "ear", without another one above it.

When Ken came out, he saw it and called it (I think) "Factory punching".

I was taught to punch going down, so that's what I have always done, except on those cat 5 installs

That's why we call it a punch DOWN tool, not a punch UP tool.

Ha ha.

Yeah, a punch UP tool cuts the wire on top :p

Add on. The dumbest, and hardest to deal with, was the one where the guy brought both leads in thru the same fan-split, w/bl up, bl/w down, etc! WHAT A NIGHTMARE! Said he thought it looked better and made more sense! You only had to turn the punch tool around for EVERY wire!
Matt, note that starting with the w/BL in the first 'slot' means the Sl/Vi winds up 'twisting in the wind' at the bottom of the block, rather than the W/Bl lying on the top of the block. D-mned if you do, D-mned if you don't! John C. (Not Garand)

Just a thought, is it time to start Phase II yet? John C. (Not Garand)

All kidding aside, using the down method, place all the wires into the metal terminal notches where they will reside. Then, holding the unpunched wires in the tool-less hand, pull the group gently down and away from the block, as you punch the wires in order. The downward/outward pulling will aid the cutting operation, and clear the cut wire ends from the cutting area. You will wind up with a handful of cut ends, which are easy to dispose of. You should be able to do a block in just a couple of minutes this way.