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Visit Atcom to get started with your new business VoIP phone system ASAP
Turn up is quick, painless, and can often be done same day.
Let us show you how to do VoIP right, resulting in crystal clear call quality and easy-to-use features that make everyone happy!
Proudly serving Canada from coast to coast.
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RIP Moderator-Mitel, Panasonic
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LOOKIN' GOOD! I used to live there, around 69th and Oak. Where abouts are you located? John C. (Not Garand)
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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Thanks!
Need to get some more paint, 1 can didn't do it.... other than that, I'm kinda proud of it. It's fun work as well.
I'm out in Lee's Summit, about 20 miles east of downtown.
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Get to work, Matt. We used to have a system of that size installed before lunch,
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Lol
I know..... I know... and you walked to the job in blinding snow, uphill both there and back, barefoot, ...etc... etc....
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RIP Moderator-Mitel, Panasonic
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Yeah and the best partners were 1 right-handed and 1 left-handed. Really land those 25pr's when 2 of you can work elbow to elbow! Remember walking into 2nd floor equipment room to do a little work on a Tie Meritor when some people were still buying 1A2's. Two guys in there, Stoned Out Of Their Minds, could hardly talk. I was a heavy smoker, or I'd have choked to death. Seems their company had NO concept of how long it took to put in a 6-station 1A2 system, they were done and had another whole day allotted for them to finish the job. They just hadn't put the 400 cards in for keeps. Everything was connected and tested, but without the cards in place and with PS unplugged,all was "cool". The company shall remain unnamed, but when the "gravy" days of early interconnect ended, so did they! John C. (Not Garand)
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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Looks nice! What are those two things above the backboard?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Thanks!
You mean the mushrooms?
If so, they are used to route the wires around from one row of blocks to the other - basically I ran a 25 pair from the KSU to the first row of 66 blocks, then fed the 2nd row from the first... kinda like daisy chaining 'em I guess. Anyway, the wires that connect the blocks together go up and over the shrooms.
I'm having a lot of fun with it, but like I told Ed yesterday, there's been more than a few do overs.
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No, I know what mushrooms are I meant higher above the backboard where the 50 pair goes.
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Jeff:
The unit on the left is a stand-alone intercom unit. On the right, it looks to be a Bogen FM tuner.
Matt:
Looks like you need another mushroom board and a couple of brackets. Looks like a pair of 66M1-25 blocks might have fit into your plan better. I thought you were just going to run jumpers out of the KSU to the station blocks. Let me know if you need any more parts.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Hey Ed -
Right on both counts: Intercom/Tuner.
As for the parts - yep. Damn man, you're good. The ITT manual said to use 2 25 pair blocks - one they called the "CO Block". and the other, simply "25 pair block". I didn't have any of those, so did the best I could with what I had.
Originally I was going to run jumpers from the 66 blocks back to the KSU, but then decided it would be cleaner to do it this way. Ken and I discussed it, and the ITT manual said to do it this was as well, specifically if you were going to connect more than 5 stations.
Because of all that, I went with the 25 pair out of the KSU. So the upper left block is a straight feed from the KSU, the one below it is used for AB/BB, etc, as well as all the intercom connections. Right now I only have 2 stations connected, and they go to the upper right block. The lower right block has nothing on it yet, but I have 2 more phones in my living room to connect to it.
So yeah, I'll need some more blocks - I have enough slack to yank the split pair blocks and replace with those you suggested. Also will need another shroom block. And that intercom card as well (just so I have it, doubt I'll be able to find one again). Plus part of me wants every slot in the KSU consumed and functional. Also a couple more new brackets - Ken gave me 2 he had as well as another blue board.
I'll get ya a more complete/definitive parts list in a week or so, gotta wait for payday to roll around again.
Tommorow I'm gonna take a stab at figuring out what's wrong with my MOH. I gotta think it's something I'm doing wrong or not doing at all.
Thanks - Matt
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Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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AB = A Battery, BB = B Battery (-24v). I don't know why they are called A & B though, and I'm not completely sure, but I think the main difference is one is filtered and one isn't. There's also AG and BG (A&B Ground). And of course RC and RG (Ring). Oh, L & LG (Intercom Lamp). And a whole lot more, probably. This is just what I've learned while here. Also I had to bring over 10v and 18v to the 66 block, the 10v is to feed the intercom lamp input, and the 18v goes to the intercom as well, for signalling output.
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Thanks I only knew Lamp and Lamp ground.
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Hey, it's a cute little ITT 601 system! Nice 4 line cell, Corinth's answer to a WE554 shoebox. (Saw one at the Dayton Hamvention, really shoulda picked it up...)
Looks like you're going to use an external power supply and intercom. That's good, since the intercom and power supply were proprietary, and the weak link of the design. I must've installed hundreds of these back in the day. Think I tossed my manuals years ago, but I bet I could set one up from memory.
Nice project, nice install, great to see someone keeping up with 1A2. My friend still has a WE shoebox in his house, the VZ tech's really get a kink out of it everytime he calls them in. I sent him all my remaining 2564 sets when I moved to Florida, but can't find WE 6 button Touch A Matic sets for him anymore.
Macy Hallock - N8OBG - Medina, OH
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Thanks!
Power supply and ring generator are internal; but I think the PS is going out.
Thanks for all the compliminents! But not much is due to me, I try to take my time, and try to route things properly/neatly. But it was Ken and Ed (among others) that have mentored me through this. Now I'm just learning through experience.
But your right on the intercom - the box next to it is a valcom radio for MOH. I have an intercom card for the KSU; but near as we can tell it's no good.
Thanks again, I'm having a ball. Some people might think having 3 2565's in one room is a bit over the top, but I can't get enough of 'em. Shooting for 7 1A2 phones, a trimline in each bathroom, and various assorted other models sprinkled here and there.
I'll post some more pics tomorrow, I'm very nearly done (with this phase, anyway).
PS: There's a WE KSU on ebay now, looks like it comes with 4 line cards and is ready to go.
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Thats a lot neater than I seen some professional installers do over the years.
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Matt: Most telco racks are 23", not 19". Either way, that's a lot to try to fit within a standard 16" stud wall without notching studs. That's something I'd never advocate. You might want to ask the seller to confirm the dimensions anyway.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Why not mount it on stand-offs? You can use plastic conduit / tubing and long wood screws.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Yep, I sent him an email asking the dimensions.
At least from the left edge of the amphenol card, over to the right edge of the bell.
If it's greater than 16" (actually a bit less, I think the 16" standard is on center), I'll have my nephew build a box to mount it in.
And now to take this completely off topic -
As far as notching studs... no worries there. I don't do that. Ever.
The previous owner of my house decided to recess his big screen TV into the rec room wall.
I had to gut the rec room, as I had to replace the lower 1/3 of ALL structural framing around the house (due to bad siding that absorbed and retained water instead of repelling it). You could literally grab a 2x4 and watch it crumble to dust in your hands.
Anyway.... after gutting the rec room, I took a look at where he had cut the studs to recess his TV.
He used a 2x4 laid flat for a header; and apparently a keyhole saw to cut the studs, and near as I can tell, eyeballed where to cut them, as some were shorter than others, and none of them were a square cut.
No problem! He just grabbed some popsicle sticks to fill in the gap. I'm not kidding. Freaking popsicle sticks.
Where the gap was too large for popsicle sticks, the studs were just left dangling.
Oh, one other small detail.
The wall he cut into (removing about 1/3 of it).... was a load bearing wall.
Between the dry rot and his handywork, to this day I don't understand why this house remained standing.
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Arthur -
Excellent tip. That will be a lot easier, and I will do just that. You guys continue to amaze me.
Thanks! Matt
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PS
Thanks Bob! But most of the kudos go to Ken and Ed..... they basically walked me through every step. Thankfully Ken lives not too far away, and was good enough to stop out one day. He showed me how to do a radius on the curves, mounted the tie down blocks, and a bunch of other stuff. But the most important thing he taught me was how to "bunt" a cable. Until then, I didn't understand how anyone could possibly sort out the pairs. Also the cable Ed sold me is excellent quality; the colors are vivid (which is good since they tell me I'm color blind), and the pairs have just the right amount of twist to them.
Pretty much all that's left is to get a beer fridge (another idea I'm stealing from Ed) to make a convienient excuse for people to see the work.
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How about a kegerator?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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I took down my 551 Weco shoebox a few years back. I used it as a test. It had the RT melco intercom buzzers and all that good stuff. As I look back you needed the 105 ring generator for diode selective ringing.
Congratulations!
Sign this man up for NASA Control!
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The Music aspect of it will work and probably does.
Don't think right away that it's a bad intercom unit. This unit will not make it work without set conversion.
It's been some time... but you can make any music source work without the intercom part on 1a2
Some of the older 400 cards didn't allow for the option. But you could still make it work!
As I rember it was somwhat like allowing a single line set to work off any line when a button was depressed.
There is a slight set conversion for this via the network and switch-hook. I'm sure there are other ways to do it.
The interrupter crkt has a path.
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Hey I gotta ask...what is this you call 'cable bunting'?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Well,
If you strip the sheath from a 25 pair cable, you very quickly end up with 50 tangled leads. I know this, cause that's what I did time and time again.
So what you do is stip an inch or so of sheath off the end. Then you find this cloth string (which I thought was just there to piss me off). Then you wrap some electrical tape around the exposed 1" of leads (leaving the string out of it), and then pull the string back, which cuts the sheathing. You're probably too young to remember, but they used to have a similar thing in a band aid wrapper.
Anyway, now you've got a foot or so of exposed wire, and an empty sheath hanging loose. You carefully and neatly trim the loose sheathing off, and then wrap electrical tape around the leads (about an inch or so up from the sheathing), back down to and around the sheathing which wasn't trimmed off.
So what you end up with is 25 pairs, taped at both ends. This keeps them secure. Then, as you punch down each pair, you gently pull it from the taped end, do the punching, leaving the remaing pairs secured by the tape.
Now when it's all punched down, you have a tight looking punch job, the leads remain twisted as you use them, and it's very easy to find the pair you are looking for. And finally, the end of the sheathing is wrapped neatly, adding to the professional look, as opposed to a bunch of wires just sticking out of the sheath.
Dunno if I described that very well. Next time I do it, which will be soon, I'll try to take pictures of each step.
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That is a pretty neat idea. I do use the rip cord to strip the cable jacket, but never thought of taping the pairs. I will try that next time I punch down a cable. PS. I do vaguely remember the red string in Band-Aid wrappers Thanks for the tip! Jeff
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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lol on the band aids!
no problem man - just something Ken taught me (you wouldn't believe how much he can teach you in the space of an hour or so). And of course everyone else here as well.
We didn't get a chance to talk about it much, but I guess they used to have a really complicated way of doing this, I didn't catch all of it, but it sounded very complicated, with a lot of attention to detail required.
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Looking good Matt!
Nice looking work.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Thanks man ... !
Hey - how do you get the cover off those @$$#?!! comdials? (I don't know if I ever told you - it showed up NIB, great shape, works great).
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There's a little metal clip in the top (or bottom - depends wether it's desk or wall) center of the face plate. It's spring loaded. Slide it back and the face plate will lift off. That will give you access to the screws that hold the body to the base.
The same applies to any of the WE or ITT phones of the same type of design.
Glad to hear the phone showed up. The guy's got great prices and great equipment but seems awfully tardy on the shipping.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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I see some cross-connections, I think, but they seem to be routed inside the 66 blocks, rather than outside. Is that how you did it?
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Well, what I did was to run a 25 pair from the KSU over to the upper left 25 block. The block below that is for intercom connections.
From there, I run cross connects from both the the upper and lower leftmost blocks (I forget what Ed called them, basically the only difference I see is they are gray and no clips are required) over to the others.
There are (6) 6 pair cross connects going from each "row" back over to the gray blocks. 1 6 pair for each line, and 1 6 pair for intercom.
Dunno if that's the proper way to do cross conencts, but it seemed like running independent lines from each row of blocks back to the gray blocks would help with troubleshooting, rather than daisy chaining all the 66 blocks together.
Also, I fixed the intecom problem. Ed shipped me a new intercom and power supply card, but the IC card didn't fix the problem. It would work, but only intermittently.
So what I did was to put the Melco back up, and power it from a Valcom filtered talk battery I had.
For the 10v and 18v feeds to the Melco, I use the KSU power supply. Probably not something that's recommended, as I can see why having 2 power supplies could cause smoke problems. I was very careful to keep them isolated from each other. So now I've got no hum on the intercom talk path.
Now if I could just get MOH working...
Dunno if that answers your question. Basically all the cross conencts run behind the blocks and over the shrooms. Was there another way I was supposed to do it?
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Originally posted by Silversam: There's a little metal clip in the top (or bottom - depends wether it's desk or wall) center of the face plate. It's spring loaded. Slide it back and the face plate will lift off. That will give you access to the screws that hold the body to the base.
The same applies to any of the WE or ITT phones of the same type of design.
Glad to hear the phone showed up. The guy's got great prices and great equipment but seems awfully tardy on the shipping.
Sam Thanks Sam!
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Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Oh!
Well, I can see how that would improve your ability to find things. There's enough slack to pull them from behind and route them in front.... perhaps something to do tonight.
Thanks Jeff -
Matt
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You got it! I should take pics of how I have my cross connects at home- I will do that this weekend.
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Yes, the whole concept of terminating ("heading up") cables on blocks, and then running cross-connections to interconnect the circuits is so that the ends of the cables are never touched again. Before x-conns were "invented" the ends of the cables were jammed into the KSU cabinet, and just the wires that were needed were extracted and terminated, and subsequent visits would result in shorter and shorter leads, and a real bird's nest of wires.
The x-conns are expendable, moveable, and traceable, as shown in the third photo from Jeff. Every job should look so good, Jeff.
The reason the two left-most (assumed 25-pair) blocks are grey is so that they are distinguishable from the 50-pair white ones.
The grey ones give you three sets of output leads, capable of feeding three telephones, or 6 telephones using bridging clips. (Using bridging clips assumes that 2 telephones, fed by 2 cables terminated on adjacent sides of a single 50-pair block will be receiving the exact same features.) That is a reasonable assumption in your case, but in the real world, the output cables from the KSU would be terminated on a minimum of a 66B25 block, which is longer and wider, and has one "input" clip and five "output" clips per row, allowing up to ten stations (with the bridging clip method) to be fed. In a very large installation, the KSU feed might be multipled on several more 66B25 blocks, so that every x-conn would serve an individual phone, with no bridging clips.
We had a rule that said no bridging clips, everything a home run, and everything a cross-connection, regardless of expedience. That method, applied as a standard in a big place, made every installation harder, but made repair clearing times (the index by which customer satisfaction was rated) very low.
(Of course, a harder installation equated to bigger paychecks, and that was OUR index of satisfaction.)
We had an 8,000 line, 600 trunk PBX with more than 12,000 key sets to maintain, and that method was the only thing that kept the whole place from being chaotic.
30 years from now, we'll have taught you everything there is to know about 1A2.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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I wish that job was mine...It was Ed's work
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Arthur -
Thanks - that explains a lot. I always wondered how it would be handled for companies with 20 or more lines. Now I know.....
But it's gonna take more like 60 years, or even 120 to learn it all, since I only work on it about 20 hours a week (and half of that time is spent tearing it apart and redoing it. Let's just say it's a good thing I have short runs and long cables.
Jeff -
Thanks - look forward to seeing them!
- Matt
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Here's a question, I tried to zoom in on Ed's pics but they pixilate too much to see.
As I'm running the cross connects, do I use cable ties to keep all the 3 pairs together as they branch off into the blocks, or is there some other way this is done?
Thanks Matt
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Sometimes if we had a lot of x-connects, we would take little pieces of scrap wire and LOOSELY tie the group of x-con's together into one bundle. This would keep it neat, but would allow the individual wires to be pulled and traced. Tight ties or even worse, tiewraps were a big no-no.
BTW - the x-connects themselves should not be tight (No banjo strings). We always left a "drip loop" at each end so you could see them move and ID them when you pulled them from block to block.
Ideally, you should be running 3 pair x-con for the lines and single pair for the bells. buzzers, etc. Sometimes people would use the whole 3 pair for the Icm - W/Bl for T/R, W/Gn for LG/L and the W/O pair for B/R, though purists would say you should turn back the W/O pair and twist it around the rest of the X-con (so it was easily identifiable as an ICM cross).
I did a large hospital once and used W/Bl for Patient phones, W/O for Admin phones, 3 pair for key equipment (of course) and then I customized the trunks - V/W for OGT (Dial 9), Y/Bl for DIDs, BN/W for Paging, etc. I posted a sign explaining the system and left spools of each kind of X-Con hanging on a piece of pipe.
When I went back to add a cabinet a year later I found that the MAC guys had let the whole system go to hell. Boy, was I ticked.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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I was trained the same way...take small pieces of scrap to tie the jumpers together, and leave drip loops so you can pull the jumpers if needed. Sam, I thought the 3rd pair was A/A1?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Cool.
You guys just saved at least 1 do over x 7 stations. I'd of pulled it all tight and used cable ties (I'd thought of using scrap (no problem getiing that!!!) to secure 'em, but wasn't sure what the right way was. I guess now that I think about it, putting cable ties on almost defeats the whole purpose.
Thanks! Matt
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Moderator-1A2, Cabling
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Jeff -
No A/A1 on a dial Icm, only on line cards and the like (no hold on the ICM). The original Manual ICM (401A) needed an A lead, the later one (401B) didn't.
I'm trying to remember if the automatic tie line cards (415) needed an A lead. I could go downstairs dig through some boxes, find the BSPs or the GTEPs and find out, but I think I'll have a beer instead.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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I must have been thinking 1A2 without an intercom.
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Jeff, you weren't entirely incorrect. Generally, a "line" appearance, whether a CO or intercom, always had tip/ring (wh/bl) and lamp ground/lamp wh/gn) connection. In an effort to keep everything uniform, and since A leads weren't needed for an intercom circuit, the wh/or pair in the jumper was supposed to be unused.
The "purist" way as Sam mentioned was to not use the white/orange pair at all, although some carpetbaggers were known to use it for the buzzer pair.
I did this once or twice or.... :rolleyes:
The purist way is to not use the white/orange pair in the cross connect wire at all for an intercom appearance. I preferred to strip it completely out of the cross connect wire, but that's just me. A separate yellow/blue single-pair jumper was then used for the buzzer pair.
Sam:
You mean that all of your spools of jumper wire were actually still there when you returned? That ain't happening these days, that's for sure.
Oh, and the 415's were wired just like a CO line, A leads, ringing and all.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Ed -
Maybe it was the 414s (manual ringdown) that didn't have an A-lead? I know they had a separate signal lead. One of them didn't.....I think.
Damn. Now I'm going to have to go downstairs and check.
Sam
Hey Ed... When I did Transmission we had special 2.5 pr X-connect for T-1s . W/O for Xmit, W/Bl for Receive and solid Gn for trace. Never saw that before. I was sure that guys had been stripping out the W/Gn. Who knew?
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Ed -
414's: Signal key, no A -lead. Ditto the Short haul Tie Lines (418)
I've forgotten most things, but not everything.
Just everything important.
Sam
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I was thinking standard 1A2 with just incoming lines. Was I correct on my 3 pairs per line?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Geez, you couldn't have taken my word for it Sam? :rofl: I've said this before and I'll say it again: I'd be happy if I could remember half of the things that the real telco guys forgot. Don't sell yourself short. Ahh, yes, that 2.5 pair cross connect wire. I used to have a bunch of it around here (yeah, I know what everyone's probably thinking), but I sold it off. I seem to recall that it did have a solid green wire instead of green/white, but I never gave it much thought. Here's a cheesy attempt at a close-up of a "donut" on cross connect wires that I like to use. I just take a 1-2" scrap and form it into a circle or two around the bundle. Both ends are left loose so that they open up or fall off if necessary. If you can't see it, it's a blue wire about halfway down the block. I don't know why I used the blue wire; the red would have been more appropriate:
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Almost, Jeff:
3 pairs for the first line and 2.5 for each additional. The A1 lead only needed to be there once for the first line on 1A2 sets. The unused half-pairs provided A leads for lines 6 through 9 in ten/twenty button sets or plenty of spare leads.
ITT/Comdial sets even allowed cutting it down to two pairs if you were desperate by commoning all lamp grounds together within the set. You could even get more tacky by commoning the single A1 to the lamp ground. One could have even gotten more common than that if necessary, as only one ground connection was actually required within the set.
That saved a bunch of "LG" leads for more trickery, like button/buzzer pairs, ring transfer keys, etc. I won't tell you some of the cheap moves that I made to gain another half-pair, at least not in public.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Thanks for the info LOL on your last line...
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Spam Hunter
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We use 2.5 to wire cross-connects between DSX panels. Tip & Ring (transmit) Tip & Ring (receive) and solid green (tracer lamp lead)
I Love FEATURE 00
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Back in the early '70s we got a job to replace the NY Tel system in a customers house. (We had a key system in his office and a real big Intercom and PA system in his factory and showroom).
Nice house in Sands Point, LI. Real nice. Make that Real, real nice. How nice is that? Live in help nice.
Salesman sells the job as a set for set replacement. "Piece of cake- all 1A2"
NOT.
Was actually 1A. No lamps. KV's and CVWs with 6040 keys. One set has the most wire to it (16 pair). The rest are 12 pair or 6 pair. NY Tel wired the house during construction. A nightmare to recable now.
Oh, and we can't rip down the wallpaper it cost $100,000. (or something ludicrous like that)
We manage to recable a couple of phones - got a cable into the attic, fed a line through closets, the boss and salesman screaming about the cost the whole time (but make it work, so we don't lose the account!). But some of the sets just could not be rewired.
Let's get 2 lines and a dial Icm working with bells, buzzers and lamps on 6 pair.
1st Line - T,R,A,L - 2 pair 2nd Line - T,R,A,L - 2 more pair DICM - T,R,L,Z - 2 more pair Internal bell for line 1 and an external bell for line 2 - no additional wires required Total - 6 pair
But where's the ground?
On a couple of sets we pulled electrical ground from the nearest receptacle and that worked.
But there was one set in a bathroom that the Icm Lamp never worked on.
What a nightmare.
And dealing with the owners wife - worse than a nightmare. Why were we there so long? The salesman promised we'd be out in a day and we're here three! You guys must be morons!
It's 35 years later and I still remember that job.
Perfectly.
Not my proudest moment, but we got it done and it even looked real good. Not that it was appreciated, but that wasn't the point, was it?
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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What is a CVW and a 6040 key?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Jeff:
A 6040 key was a box that usually mounted on the wall that emulated a six-button phone. You just wired any kind of single-line set into it, as long as it had been modified for A leads. It had either screw terminals for all connections, or a 25 pair cord to emulate a 2565 set.
I have no idea what a KV or CVW was, but I have an idey. If it's what I think it was, it involved a field-assembled system consisting of 1A1 relay assemblies (KTU's) and a small enclosure with a gray metal (later plastic) cover. There was no interrupter, power supply or line cards. Everything was line-powered.
Oh, and Sam, I can surely sympathize with you on the LI install you mentioned. Northern NJ here; same difference.....Pampered customers for sure. I remember many 66E3 blocks on 6 pair prewire loops. We did pull off some magic for sure!
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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C = Combined set. The WE 302 model, for instance...the first WE model that COMBINED the handset, switchhook, network (hybrid coil) and ringer.
CV = Combined set with a VARISTOR across the receiver terminals. (the 500-series) A varistor is a little component whose resistance decreases with an increase in voltage across it. It reduces acoustic shock (clicks) caused by switchhook and rotary dial operation.
CVW = As above mounted on the WALL.
KV = KEY set
KVW = WALL key set, aka "Cuckoo Clock"
6xxx keys = a whole family of separately-mounted keys. The 604x series has the same key as found in the KV, in a plastic cover. HOLD, plus 5 pickups.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Do these only apply to key system phones, or also to a 2500 or 2554?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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CV is a single-line set. 500/2500 family.
CVW is a single-line wall set. 554/2554 family.
KV is a key set 56x/256x family.
These were abbreviated designations of the 3-, 4-, or 5-digit USOC that referenced the series of phones. Universal Service Order Codes were the million ways that the Bell System categorized its products and services on a service order.
There was also a 9-digit ComCode number for everything ,and I mean everything, that could be ordered through the supply chain. There was a ComCode for a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood, and a ComCode for a long blue handset cord, and a ComCode for a bottle of aspirin, and a...you get the picture.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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"If it's what I think it was, it involved a field-assembled system consisting of 1A1 relay assemblies (KTU's) and a small enclosure with a gray metal (later plastic) cover. There was no interrupter, power supply or line cards. Everything was line-powered."
Ed, you are remembering the 105-type apparatus mounting, aka the "cigar box" that held up to 4 single-position 1A series or 2 double-position 1A series KTU's. These were relays on metal angle brackets and they performed simple pickup and hold functions, along with a few other tasks, such as 24 Vdc battery feed for manual intercom or tie-line service, and signaling circuits.
1A used CO power to effect the hold function. Sets were wired slightly differently than those that were used later on 1A1 or its electronic equivalent, 1A2.
The phrase that put the fear of God into the heart of a repairman was being told by the dispatcher that the next job involved "1A with lights" or "1A with FLASH" (Don't get me started.)
Silversam, I once used the metal lath in a plaster wall for the ground at a KV fed by a 6-pair. I just kept screwing a 3-inch woodscrew with a clip lead attached into the wall until I got the lamp to light.
An old foreman of mine used to refer to party lines as "Tip, Ring, and Radiator" service.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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Comcodes: Ain't that the truth! 401 836 580, one of the most common ones I ever ordered. I have bags of individually-packaged drive pins (eight per package) with a comcode that was different from the same item in a package of 100. Even the cardboard box that they came in had it's own comcode. I have a lot of respect for the comcode system. You always knew that you would get exactly what you ordered.
Yes, Arthur, I was referring to "cigar boxes" and the 1A KTU's.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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OK,
Seeing how all the skeletons are coming out, let me ask a question: I'm going to put a cuckoo clock phone in my kitchen. Ed, you once accurately predicted the year my house was built based on the cabling they used - you also gave the name of the cable type, the white stuff with 6 conductors.
Ken could fish a 25 pair to my kitchen, based on the fact that there are return air ducts near the install location. But I can't ask him to do that, and I'm not even gonna try. All I have is a fish tape; I think you guys have some nylon/fiberglass rods you use for this type of thing. Anyway, I'm a disaster waiting to happen (I drilled through a 240v cable just trying to run a 4 conductor wire once) with this type of stuff.
So now I know I actually have 7 conductors, assuming I use earth ground as a ground.
So, if you guys took out all your skeletons.... is there anyway to get 2 lines working on my cuckoo clock with 7 leads? I can forego the buzzer.
If not, I'll just go with one line.
Thanks Matt
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Moderator-Vertical, Vodavi, 1A2, Outside Wire
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If it's a true "Bell System" loop of prewire, both ends of the cable will come out to the protector or network interface. Theoretically, this loop was run uncut through every outlet in the house. If that's the case, you could cut the loop in the kitchen, yielding you two separate 3-pair cables. One could be used for each line appearance.
You'd need to go to every other outlet and make sure that none of the pairs are cut, or if they are, you'd need to splice them back together.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Moderator-1A2, Cabling
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Arthur -
Metal Lath is a classic for Key ground. I've got to remember that one. I remember having to pull a separate cable once to get Remote Hold working because the local ground s*cked. (As I recall - a 6B, a 17B, an 18D KTU and 1/2 of a good CSV circuit per line). I'm shuddering as I remember it. My foreman said that you couldn't call yourself a telephone man till you could get remote hold working. No sooner had I done my second one than they came out with remote hold cards that replaced all the relays. When I did my first job with the cards (Sanbar somethings... I can't remember the number) I couldn't believe how easy it was.
Matt -
Tone the cable back and ID how many pairs you have good to the frame. Like I said, 2 lines and an Intercom with buzzer can work on 6 pair and an earth ground. It can be done. It's not for the faint of heart, but we'll talk you through it.
Does your cuckoo clock phone have the little 66 blocks inside or does it have an amphenoled cable?
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Sam -
Well, actually it doesn't exist yet. Arthur's shipping me one.
For now, we could just go with the comdial, or a 2565HK, unless you think it's better that we wait for it to show up.
Ed -
I'm 99% sure this particular line runs straight to the basement; I'll disconnect it and see if any other jacks go dead.
Thanks all -
Matt
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Why don't we really blow his mind and suggest a line concentrator circuit to the wall set?
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Ed, would that comcode be for 2-Pair wire, Ivory, 600 feet?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Line concentrator? I like the sound of that.
Tell me more about this strange and wonderous device!
I have lots of room on the backboard.
Unless it has to go on the other end. But I can't really say I'd be too upset to have it in the kitchen either. Probably wouldn't do much for the resale value of the house, but people quit buying houses anyway. And it would be great for conversation when people come over.
"Hey Matt, what the h*** is that thing taking up half your kitchen?"
"It's a line concentrator ya idjit - what are you, stupid or something?"
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Jeff:
Close, it's four conductor quad, 600 feet in ivory.
Line concentrator...... :rofl: Matt, it was a joke; that would be entirely out of the question in this application, if they were even available!
We can get you two lines with ringing and a buzzer IF you can get all six pairs continuous to the set.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Ed, I wonder if there is a database somewhere of every comcode number? Or is it in your head
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Moderator-1A2, Cabling
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Heck, if he's got 3 pair we can set up a T-1 with a channel bank, I'm sure we can get something working with that - and we'll have 1 pair spare! Matt - For info on a line concentrator, check out "Concentrator - Identifier" on the web. Here's a sample: https://www.telephonetribute.com/switches_survey_chapter_13.html Sam
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A line concentrator is a piece of relay equipment that uses one common T&R, plus one control lead per button, (like an "A" lead, but nastier) plus a lamp pair per button, between the set and the equipment. The control lead operates a relay that applies T&R of the associated control circuit's talk path onto the common T&R to the station, and lights the line lamp.
They were used in installations where many multi-line Call Directors or answering turrets were used in a large "square" wiring format, in order to save on copper cabling.
In the list of nightmarish repair assignments, working on a concentrator is up there near the top. Not quite as bad as a crossbar ACD (automatic call distributor.)
Mathematically, the conventional installation would use, as a best case, 2.5X pairs plus a ground, where X is the number of CO lines.
The concentrator uses 1 pair plus 1.5X pairs where X is the number of CO lines.
A 29 button Call Director would therefore use, as a minimum, 72.5 pairs plus a ground.
The same 29 lines on a concentrated tel set would require 43.5 pairs plus a ground.
You can see the how the copper savings would acrue in a large system that had sets with 100 lines or more.
The reason that lamp grounds cannot generally be concentrated is that with long runs of cable, and many lamps lit at the same time, you get a condition known as "cross-modulation" the effect of which is lit lamps will go dim or almost out when other lamps turn on. That makes lit steady lamps look like they're flashing, but in an opposite cadence to the ones that are really flashing. It makes operation of the set difficult. Some systems allow a few lamps per lamp ground lead, to save a few pairs. You can see this condition on the highway at night, when the driver of an old Peugeot turns on the left turn signal, and the rear running light goes out. They were notorious for having a bad ground connection in their tail light assemblies.
But I digress.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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OK next question, what is an answering turret?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Ok, It all works.
I would like someone on this board tell me how a crystal am set works without power.
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Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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A turret is the generic term for several types of large key sets.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Turret? Multi key service apparatus.
Turret? there is no such term.
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Line concentrators.. for 1a2? Now that makes you about 80 years old.
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The Last time I moved a line concentrated 1A2 unit was At Boston University. That was 20 years ago.
hello
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Amplified t-1.. Too short from the co is sent on four wires. to a premise t-1 interface such as tellab or westell ect. To exstend the plug-in
You only need two pair.
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"Turret? Multi key service apparatus. "
"Turret? there is no such term."
OOOOOOOOOOOkay.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Am I missing something? I worked on plenty of them in the 1980's for a large service bureau. Turrets really didn't exist?
I never heard of using a T1 on 1A2 to concentrate line appearances. Please tell me more about this concept. You can never stop learning new tricks.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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?????
Ken ---------
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Originally posted by Matt1964: Thanks man ... !
Hey - how do you get the cover off those @$$#?!! comdials? (I don't know if I ever told you - it showed up NIB, great shape, works great). Wait till you have to replace the light bulbs under the keys. Heh heh heh
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Ed -
I worked with a couple of Channel Banks that offered the opportunity to send "dry" pairs over T-1. I assume you could use these dry pairs for A & L leads. I was jesting of course when I suggested this, but it is at least theoretically possible.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Thanks a lot, Sam. That's not exactly where I was heading . Matt's pretty serious about making this system install happen, so I would not be surprised to see a channel bank sitting on top of his refrigerator! If so, we'll just blame it on someone else.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Actually, I could put it in my fridge, if it needs the cooling.
One thing's for sure... as a single guy, the only other thing you might find in my fridge is a 6 month old 1/2 gallon of milk, some orange juice about the same vintage, and some Dr. Pepper.
Used to be a good place to keep beer, but after years and years of pretty heavy drinking, one day I just couldn't drink any more. One beer = headache.
So I'm all for turning my fridge into a line concentrator.
I got all the cross connects redone, will post pics soon. I went ahead and wired all 4 lines + intercom, but I've some troubleshooting to do. Line lamps on some sets work, but not on others. Will be easy to track down, but I'm cooked.
Oh, and I'll get the info on the 3 pair to the kitchen tommorrow.
Thanks all - Matt
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Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Yeah - but it's true!
I'll post pics soon, but just wanted to say thanks to Arthur for pointing out my cross connect wiring error. I got done repunching it last night, and even though I only have 2 lines, I figured I'd punch all 4 and obviously the intercom.
Line positions 3 and 4 lit on some phones, not on others.
Because of the cross connects... it was a simple matter to see what was going where, and although I was tempted to break out a butt set and listen to see if I could hear 10 volts, I opted to use my high tech, fancy dancy, new fangled VOM.... easy process of elimination, had the problems repaired in about 10 minutes. Lesson learned: If you pull a lead from a terminal, make sure the terminal is completely free of old wire/insulation. Sounds obvious, I know, and I looked them over before repunching... but I missed a couple terminals.
Also the tip about keeping the cross connects loose came in handy; just gently pulled on the lead to see where it was going - so thanks to Sam et. al. for that.
More thanks to come. All you guys are fantastic.
- Matt
And apologies to Ken, he taught me how to do cross connects when he was here, but I apparently forgot.
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Waiting for the pics One mistake I have made is accidentally skipping pairs or punching two wires on the same pin. Makes it hard for things to work!
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Yep, been there, done that as well. I lost count of how many times I'd be punching down a keyset, get to the 23rd or 24th pair, punch it down, for some reason it cut on both top and bottom, try to pull a little slack... punch it again.... cuts on top and bottom again... no more slack.
Yank all of 'em and start over.
But I'm starting to get the hang of it, and the logic behind all of it is standing out clearly. I doubt I'll ever get to the point where I can punch down all 25 pairs from memory, even though I understand (thanks to Ken) the color coding pattern, and that there are really only 5 combinations.
But I will say that punching down the cross connects the proper way took half the time the other (wrong) way did, and I only cross connected 2 lines that way. Also Ed gave me a great tutorial on how to punch the Intercom lines, so that went like a breeze as well.
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I have the color code memorized, as everyone does, but I still mess up
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Matt, here's the color code:
Bell Operators Give Better Service.
Why Run Backward, You'll Vomit.
Incidentally, you and perhaps others on this forum may not know this, but there are two pairs that are named in honor of two Bell Operators, who gave their lives during a horrific flood that devastated a large mid-western city back in the early 1900's. They were cousins, and when they were given the order to evacuate, they defied the order, and stayed at their positions, answering emergency calls until they both lost their lives as the flood waters drowned them.
In a very somber ceremony, after the waters had receded, the president of AT&T, William Vail, decreed that forevermore, two pairs in every cable group would commemorate their heroism:
Violet Green, and Violet Brown.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Originally posted by Matt1964: Yep, been there, done that as well. I lost count of how many times I'd be punching down a keyset, get to the 23rd or 24th pair, punch it down, for some reason it cut on both top and bottom, try to pull a little slack... punch it again.... cuts on top and bottom again... no more slack.
Yank all of 'em and start over. There's a fix for that and I never recommend or do it :-) Your screwdriver is your friend. If you've dutifully cut the sheath behind a 66 block, you can seperate the wires and wrap it around your screwdriver in a single loop. Carefully work the screwdriver back and forth with the wire wrapped around it. You stretch the wire and can gain about an inch :-) Carl who would ever want to do that?
This model is end of life
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Hmmmmmm
I still have room for 4 more sets.... I promise not to do that if the need arises.
Did I mention my fingers became permanently crossed at about the age of 7?
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YES! That is the way to do it!
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Nice job!
As you can see in the photo, the newer 66M blocks have a notch molded into the fanning strip at the beginning of each 5 pair sub-group. These notches will tell you if you are off by a half pair, allowing you to correct your small mistake before it gets to be a big one.
Wire stretching was a common practice on MDF's in CO's, when a wire transfer required moving the X-conn just a few terminals further away. It was a lot easier than a re-run on a 150-foot frame.
There is always room for a B-connector or a Scotchlok behind the 89B bracket, too, to correct mistakes due to severe cases of eyeball spasm and/or brain fart.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Thanks guys!
I tried to do my best, the only thing I would change if I had it to do over would be to punch from the bottom up, so that the wires going off to the terminals would be on top of the rest of the wires. Other than that, I'm real happy with it. As I mentioned earlier, it's already paid off in ease of troubleshooting. I just go unplug all my keysets, and run continuity checks from the KSU and through each block until I reach the keyset lines. If I have continuity all the way to there, then I know the keyset line is broken off the terminal. In my case, 2 cross connect leads had bad punches, and 1 keyset lead was broken. Also it's much easier to see which line you are testing, just follow the drip loops.
Thanks for the tips Arthur - Ken had pointed out the notches when he came out, but I'd always wondered if using a scotchlok would get you thrown out of the club. In my csae, it's no big deal to start over, I actually enjoyed the practice I got because of all my screw ups; and also learned more as I got halfway through something and through a combination of this forum, the ITT manual, and common sense, realized I was going down the wrong path.
Although I'll admit some cabling was sacrificied for my learning... a small price to pay.
Now if I could just get the **@^&^#!!! MOH working. It's punched down exactly as per specs, I think I'm going to try a different music input source as the next test.
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Matt -
Put a butt set across the MOH output. If you've got Music there then look for it on pins 3&18 of line 1.
If you don't have it in those 2 places then you'll never get it.
Also - what kind of line card are you using. You'll need an ITT400E or Sanbar 4200 or WE 4200G or H. A 400D won't work. In order for the card to have MOH it needs little gold "fingers" on pins 3 &18 to make contact with the backplane. If you don't have those, the Music will never get through the card to the line.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Hi Sam -
I'll test it there, I've tried it across the tuner and got sound, but never tried the terminals.
It's a K403 MOH card, and a K400E line card. One thing I was wondering was if I have the K400E punched down properly or not. I'll PM you a link to the manual for this card, and perhaps you could have a look. I can't tell if jumper 2 should be F-H or H-H. Also there is a jumper on the K403, and I don't know how it should be set.
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RIP Moderator-Mitel, Panasonic
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Sam and Aurthur, and anybody else with an opinion, question about punch down. In SWB territory, and pretty much everywhere else I've seen 'older' work, the pairs come in UNDER the clip and 'wrap up', as opposed to coming in OVER the clip and 'wrapping down', so to speak. I think I figured out why, it's easier to punch a group of pairs down going top to bottom on the block, if the pairs come in under and 'wrap up'. Yes, No, B/S? First time I saw it, I had already learned to come in on top and 'wrap down'. Confused the h-ll out of me when my pair colors were off half a pair, until I figured out what was happening! And the cable color code 'ditty' is not as entertaining as the resistor color code. I learned 2 ways, Air Force: Biloxi Booze Rots Our Young Guts, But Vodka Goes Well. Other way: Bad Boys R-pe Our Young Girls, But Violet Gives Willingly. Oh yeah, Black, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Gray, White. (And Silver, Gold) Or 0 thru 9 John C. (Not Garand)
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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I punched that way too when I first started. The reason I did it that way was I thought every lead should go between whatever you call the plastic "ears" that are labeled with the function of that row. If you punch from the top down, the first lead comes in over the top of the first plastic "ear", without another one above it.
When Ken came out, he saw it and called it (I think) "Factory punching".
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I was taught to punch going down, so that's what I have always done, except on those cat 5 installs
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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That's why we call it a punch DOWN tool, not a punch UP tool.
Ha ha.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Yeah, a punch UP tool cuts the wire on top :p
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Add on. The dumbest, and hardest to deal with, was the one where the guy brought both leads in thru the same fan-split, w/bl up, bl/w down, etc! WHAT A NIGHTMARE! Said he thought it looked better and made more sense! You only had to turn the punch tool around for EVERY wire! Matt, note that starting with the w/BL in the first 'slot' means the Sl/Vi winds up 'twisting in the wind' at the bottom of the block, rather than the W/Bl lying on the top of the block. D-mned if you do, D-mned if you don't! John C. (Not Garand)
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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Just a thought, is it time to start Phase II yet? John C. (Not Garand)
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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All kidding aside, using the down method, place all the wires into the metal terminal notches where they will reside. Then, holding the unpunched wires in the tool-less hand, pull the group gently down and away from the block, as you punch the wires in order. The downward/outward pulling will aid the cutting operation, and clear the cut wire ends from the cutting area. You will wind up with a handful of cut ends, which are easy to dispose of. You should be able to do a block in just a couple of minutes this way.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Thanks Arthur - I'll try that when I hook up the remaing 2.5 66 blocks.
John -
As for Phase II - yes, it's close. But to finish Phase I, I have to figure out what to do with the CO lines. It's a real mess right now. Basically they both come in to the house about 5 feet from where I mounted the backboard and connect to a series of whatever you call the things that have been around forever.... square 4 screw terminal gizmos that the single line phones connect to.
One line has DSL, and I didn't want filters all over the house, so I put one filter on it which then feeds all phones for that line. Actually the first thing fed from the filtered DSL line is my alarm panel, which then feeds the rest of the house.
The other is my business line. The wiring is all jury rigged together, a real rats nest.
Now that I have the backboard and associated equipment, I need to overhaul the incoming CO lines, outgoing/incoming alarm feeds, as well as the outgoing single line phone wiring.
Is there some sort of device to tie all this together neatly? As I type this, it occurs to me a 66 block would probably be just the thing.
Unless there is a better, more generally preferred solution.
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"Now that I have the backboard and associated equipment, I need to overhaul the incoming CO lines, outgoing/incoming alarm feeds, as well as the outgoing single line phone wiring. Is there some sort of device to tie all this together neatly? As I type this, it occurs to me a 66 block would probably be just the thing."
Matt:
You need to take all the incoming CO lines (how many are there?) and make what is known as a "multiple" block. You should use a 66M50 block.
Take some single-pair X-conn wire and starting at the top left, terminate the wire at the top pair of terminals (row A, pins 1 & 2). Then loop about two inches of wire, and using the other end of the punchdown tool, (the end that allows looping rather than cutting,) multiple the same pair on subsequent sets of pins, using 6 pairs of pins on row A, total. Then flip the tool over and cut off the wire.
Start over at the next pair of pins, and do the same thing. If you have 4 lines, you could do 6 pairs of terminals per line, as an example. Sometimes we use BL/W for the first loop wiring, then OR/W, etc, so that you can instantly tell what circuit you're working on.
Then take your incoming wire that has the CO lines on it, and terminate it on row B, pins 1&2 for line one, row B, pins 13&14 for line two, etc. Now the dial tone is present at all pins at and below the incoming wire. Then on the right side of the split block, attach your single-pair X-conn's, run them to whatever destination you want them on (incoming pair to 1A2 KSU, wire to external bell, Y/SL pair on a tel set cable, for line ringer, etc.)
Finally, use bridging clips to pass the DT across the block. To troubleshoot, pull off pins until the trouble clears. This gives you a bunch of appearances of each line.
You can directly terminate smaller (quad, 3- and 4-pair) inside wires on the right side of the multiple block. You will not get thrown out of the club for doing that.
For an alarm panel connection, take the incoming DT wire for the particular DT you wish to use for the alarm, and before terminating it on row B of the block, go behind the block, and B-connect or Scotchlok it to the R/G pair of a quad (or BL/W of a 4-pair) and run that wire to the panel. That is the DT feed. The DT FROM the panel comes back on the Y/BK or the OR/W and it becomes the left feed on the block on row B at the normal position.
In the real world, we never use the listed number, but rather a fax line or other unlisted trunk, for the alarm circuit. Also, wiring it this way helps to disguise the connection, so miscreants cannot instantly see the connection, and rip it out.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Cool -
There's just 2 incoming. One for home, one for work. I'll do as you recc.
Thanks Arthur!
- Matt
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Matt- I like that setup! The phones look really cool!
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Thanks Jeff! In other news, MOH is now working! I took out the K403, and noticed the jumper solder joints were broken (don't know how I missed that before). Fixed that, still no MOH - then I put jumper 2 on the K400E to F-H, and viola. I'm sure it was a combo the the two, as I've tried H-H and F-H before and it made no difference; the broken solder joint on the circuit trace must have been the root cause. Thanks all, many of you have tried to help me with this - kudos to Sam, Ed and Arthur and Ken, and everyone else as well. Now I just have to wait for someone to call so I can put them on hold. I don't think I've ever called someone's house before and got MOH. I'm pretty sure from now on, everyone who calls will be put on hold for a few seconds at least. Sam - I'm studying the manual for the tracker. Havn't used it yet, as I don't want to before I know how to operate it and risk damaging it -Unless it lets you open up it's cover to test it's own components - but if it works as the manual says (and I'm sure it does).... I'll probably be wanting to purchase it from ya. I've never seen any test equipment that reliably let you test components in circuit... and there is at least a 50/50 chance of ruining a component to take it out for testing, and then of course you can never be sure you didn't ruin it putting it back in.
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Matt -
Check out the components on a 400 card- that'll give you an idea what you can and can't do with it.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Roger that will do. I also have a couple intercom cards to check out.
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One other thing - I can't find the post I made about this, but I sent a pic of the guts of my 2565 HK asking what the silver box by the bell was.
Ed answered back it was a buzzer - but there was a fair amount of debate about what voltages it was compatible with.
I used orange/yellow instead of green/yellow for buzzers this time. Turns out the "silver box" was hooked to orange/yellow.
Works great at 18vac. In fact I was pretty shocked at first, as I hadn't installed a buzzer in it yet... and here it was, buzzing away.
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Matt, do you have any more pictures?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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I'll grab some in a bit - I lowered the resolution on my camera and now am able to send them to my email OK.
Check back in about an hour or so.
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Looks good! Where did you get those telco gray cable ties?
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Well, I'll let the guy who supplied 'em chime in if he wants.
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I like it. Not bad at all for a first timer for sure. So, Matt did you decide to use the Teltone intercom in lieu of the 601 card?
Gray cable ties? What gray cable ties? I didn't notice them.
Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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This picture https://img216.imageshack.us/img216/352/11080717122my8.jpg Matt, you must have the same gray cable tie supplier that I have
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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Originally posted by EV607797: I like it. Not bad at all for a first timer for sure. So, Matt did you decide to use the Teltone intercom in lieu of the 601 card?
Gray cable ties? What gray cable ties? I didn't notice them. For now - I want to have everything in the KSU; but until I can figure out why it won't work consitently... I'll go with the Teltone. I'll be getting another 601A soon and see how it behaves in that.
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