atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems ITT 501C Intercom

OK, I'll go try that now.

I wouldn't waste too much time with examining the backplane. True, it's possible that a wire wrap connection may have broken, but I've never seen that happen on a 601. Then again, who knows what may have happened in shipping? That was one of the reasons for my last suggestion with reversing the ring voltage vs: 10 volt signaling.

I doubt that it's contacts either. Those card contacts are huge, so there's little likelihood that they aren't at least making partial contact. True, a relay contact could be bad. Since it's a matrix of relays, all it takes is one to mess up everything.

I guess it's best to go ahead and wait for the unit that Sam is sending. I hate to give up since I've never seen one of these things fail, but there is a first time for everything. Maybe that's why it was sold on e-bay!

Well, I tied from the ground screw on the power supply card to a cold water pipe....

Still nothing.

Yeah, I have to agree. We gave it everything we had... the only other thing I can think of is if there is another home enthusiast with this setup, I could ship them the card and see if it behaves or not. But that's a bit of overkill, I'm Sure Sam's card will do the trick.

Thanks for all the tips everyone! I'll post back after I install Sam's card.

Oh, we have a whole new project ahead. You aren't receiving a card from Sam; it's an entirely separate unit, so we'll be back to "row this and terminal that" for your power connections!

Ya know - I was just about to go edit my post from "card" to "box"....!

lol.... can't wait for it to get here.

Sam, Ed -

OK - the magic box got here today (Thanks again, Sam)! But before I get to that, a short story to let you know a little more about the keysets I have as well as how my luck usually runs.

Some weeks ago, I decided I was tired of the keypad buttons on my red 2565 "miskeying".... I bought it on Ebay, and even though I'm a smoker... upon opening the box nearly got knocked over from what sort of resembled a telephone but smelled more like an ashtray that hadn't been emptied in 30 years. So I cleaned it up, but the buttons have always been a pain... if you press them at the wrong angle, you don't get the right tone. So I decided to tear it apart, get the buttons out, and soak all the nicotine out/off of 'em.

Well, it came apart a lot easier than it went back together, but I did my best and was pretty sure it would work. Hooked it all back up.... non functional. Checked, rechecked, checked, checked and then checked all the connections again. Took it apart again, ran a couple continuity checks, put it back together, hooked it all back up... still didn't work.

So today I made a post out in the wanted section for a new/used keypad, and a friendly member told me it's possible to use the keypad from a 2500 in a 2565. So I took out they keypad from a spare 2500 I had, and hooked it up... it didn't work either... at first. Then comparing my different series of notes on removing the leads from a 2500, 2565, as well as looking at another 2565 I have... I noticed that I had gotten the blue and black leads reversed on the "whatever you call the thing in the phone" that all the wires hook to (station block)? Swapped them back to where they should be... and viola, the 2500 pad worked great. Then I decided maybe I hadn't broken the 2565 pad, so I took off the 2500 pad and put the original back in. And it also worked great. I don't know how I missed the blue and black reversal after so many checks. I think my mistake was using B and/or BK in my notes to denote black when I wrote them, and then interpreting B as blue when I read them.

Anyway, feeling quite proud of myself, as well as getting instant help from this site once again (thanks, Arthur P. Bloom!), I mounted a buzzer in it, put the cover back on, and sat back, happy in the knowledge that I now have 2 WE 2565HK keysets that are fully functional and clean, one red, one white. For some reason I prefer the WE keysets to the ITT ones (of which I have several); they just seem sturdier. And so then I placed the red keyset on my desk, sat back, still patting myself on the back.... look at the phone... something isn't right.. and noticed.... I'd installed the the * and # keys in reverse. I'm not tempted to take the keypad apart again, so for now, I'm just considering it a highly customized model.

This is a small example of the pattern my life usually follows.

So anyway - I have the keysets in place, and 10v buzzers (blue leads) in each, hooked to the yellow/green pair.

Ed, I was browsing another thread where you were helping someone hook up their intercom box to a 1A2:

https://www.sundance-communications.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=35;t=000007;p=0

Here's what I've done so far:

1) Connected AG and AB from the KSU to the intercom. I also measured AB and AG and see about 24.5 VDC there.

2) Connected the black/green pair from both stations to the tip/ring of the intercom.

3) Connected the audible signal supply from the intercom to the 10v AC terminal on the KSU.

4) Connected the yellow/green pair from one keyset to the B0/R0 outputs of the intercom. I want to get one station buzzing before hooking up the other.

Now this is where I'm stuck. In your other post, you mention that there should be BB and BG terminals in the KSU to hook to the corresponding terminals on the intercom - but I don't see 'em on the KSU.

Also you mention running a single wire from the intercom's LB terminal to the KSU's LB terminal - I don't see this one on the KSU, or the intercom.

I'm sure the 'B' battery outputs are on the KSU somewhere; I'll go back to the manual and look for references for a -20 to -28 unfiltered DC source.

Gotta go walk the dog, will be back shortly. I'm hoping you guys lead a life about as exciting as mine and maybe browse this forum tonight.

Well, still no luck findding B battery. I'm not so sure it existsnow; looking at the manual for the power supply it says it provides:

1) Regulated -24vdc for intercom and line talk battery and power for logic circuits and relays

2) 18 vac for buzzers

3) 10 vac for lamps

And that's it.... should I just tie the intercom's AB and BB together onto the KSU AB?

Don't worry about locating a formal "B" battery in the 601A; just use the AB terminal to feed both AB and BB on the intercom unit. The current draw from an intercom unit will have zero impact upon the B battery supply.

A ground is a ground is a ground now that you have the jumpers in place that we discussed earlier, so you should be fine there.

"LB" is just the acronym for "Lamp Battery", which is 10 volts AC. Use the same source for your buzzer supply as your "LB".

OK,

Will do - just had some unexpected company show up, so I'll post back later.

Thx
Matt