atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems Where to connect wires from 4a speakerphone

I have purshased a used 4A speakerphone system to complete my 2565. I'm surprised because the pictures of the connecting bloc I usually seen had 3 large connectors (one with 108A+switch+black module, 2nd for the phone, 3rd for remote cable) It was also an easy way to find the power supply wires. Unfortunatly, the one I've got is a smaller connecting box with only one large connector place. As is, the other side of the cable have all the wires to connect one by one somewhere... My system is used alone at home without a key system. Can I plug the 2565 phone connector diretly to the 108A+switch+black module and just use a cable for the 2 wires of the line directly on the phone ? I also need to find the wires for the power transformer of the 4A.

No, you definitely need the correct connecting block. It sounds like you just have a 149A or 149B connecting block which is not intended for the connection of the 4A set. You will need to try to get your hands on an 82A, B or C connecting block. They were made by Western Electric and by Precision Components, Inc. That's going to be a tough one to find, but you might want to place a post in the Buy/Sell Equipent category because I know that some people have indicated recently that they have large stockpiles of this stuff in their garages and basements.

Thanks for the reply. I will check the actual connecting block reference as soon as I will receive it. But many speaker phone sets at Ebay are sold with the same connecting bloc than mine. I'm curious to know what is it made for. To be more precise, when I say 4A system, I only mean using a classic 2565 phone with a 108A speaker and his switch system.

The block you need (82B or C) is specifically designed to offer true "plug and play" connection to a 2565 set. It is interally wired with three 25 pair connectors; one for the incoming cable, one for the line cord to the set, and the third for the transmitter and speaker plugs. Another plug can go into this connector to intoduce the 18 volt power that is required, but the block also has screw terminals to permit this connection.

On the other hand, the 149 block is just an "in-out" block that connects in-line with a cable feeding a telephone set. It permits access to many of the otherwise unused pairs in the cable to allow the installation of fax jacks nearby, etc.

This is not a 149 block but a Western Electric 223A, you can see a picture on the following link https:// . Do you think that it could be OK if I can't find a 82A/B/C ?

It will work if you have the M16 cord with spade tips that wire into the set. If all you have is amp plug than no.

All I have is what you see on the picture + 108A loudspeaker and of course a 2565 phone. I don't know what M16 cord is... If it's possible as is, I have to find the wires for the 18 VAC transformer power supply and know where to plug all the wires that I see...

With the 223 adapter you need to wire all leads to the set and to the speaker. With the 82 block it's all plugged into the block, with the exception of the transformer. Looks like your transmitter is the wired type, so now you need the M16 cable to go to the set to wire it.

Because I only want to use it on a single line at home, wouldn't it be easier to plug directly the 2565 phone connector to speaker+transmitter+blackmodule (as seen on the picture) and plug the 2 wires of the phone line directly into the 2565 slots, at the end I'd have to find the 2 wires for the 18 VAC transformer. Thanks for your precious help.

How you going to wire it without the proper connections? Using the set up you have pictured, what you have plugged in goes to the speaker, above that is a small plug that goes to the transformer, and above that the transmitter, all are plugged into the M16 amp and cable that go to the set. You can't plug them direct to the set you would have no feed from the KSU. Am I missing something?

The picture was just to show the 223 module, nothing else. I don't need a KSU, only 2 wires from classic phone line and a power transformer. That's why I propose to plug the phone line directly on the 2565 and the M16 for 4A system. But I suppose it's a stupid idea...

So what do you have? Transmitter with or with out end to plug to amp? Speaker with or with out end to plug to amp? (without means spade tips on wires) and transformer with or without? Are you planing on using the amp plug on the phone? If so what are you plugging it into? If you have the M16 cable, and plug connectors on everything it all just plugs into it than wires to the phone.

Thanks again for your help and patience.
I have a 2565hkms with end amp connector, a 108A speaker with end, a transmitter/switch with end and a small end black module (the same you can see on the picture or in any 82A/B/C set between speaker and transmitter/switch ends). I don't have any transformer at this time but I will buy it. I'm planing to use the 2565hkms amp to plug into the speaker end + transmitter/switch end and the small black module end ( what is it ? ). As is, I only have to find where to plug the 18 VAC wires to power up the speaker and transmitter/switch (directly on the 2565hkms), then I have to plug the 2 wires of the single phone line on the 1 & 26 slots of the 2565hkms.

Sorry it won't work that way, your best bet is the 82 block for what you're trying to do. Guess maybe Ed understood what you were doing. All 223 adapter is for is to house all the other stuff when using the M16 cable.

You will definitely need the 82 type block to handle this. I have one available for sale if you are interested, probably the last one on the planet including the transformer. Send me a private e-mail if you are interested and I will figure out what it's worth.

The 223 adapter allows you to hard-wire the speakerphone set into the phone. It was designed for use ONLY with 2830/2831 sets due to the lack of available spare pairs on 10/20 button sets. Technically, it can be used with a 2565HKM, but I don't have access to the documentation to make it happen.

Yes, you are on the right track about sending the line into the phone on the first pair, but you won't have any lights or hold functionality. I assume you already know that much based upon your previous posts.

You guys are great - I enjoy just reading through your posts. Amazing collective knowledge! It's also amazing how many people want those 4A sets - see what Charlie's Angles did for the 4A.

Don't you need to change out the dial in order to use it the 4A. I seem to recall that you could use the 4A with a special order 2500 set that had extra contacts on the dial. Wasn't that also true for a key set - that you need extra control leads in order to go off hook with the 4A and dial without picking up the headset. Does this make any sense or, as usual, am I confused?

The 2565 set the original poster mentioned comes factory equipped with the special dial that takes the phone off-hook whenever a button is pressed by closing the violet and green/white leads. I believe that the single-line phone that was equipped with this dial was a 2500MMG but don't hold me to it. The 2564 series of phones was not equipped with these dials, however the wall mount (2851CM, etc.) was. I am not quite sure how a 4A would work with a wall phone.

Actually, there were two single-line type phones designed for use with the 4A system in mind. The rotary version was the 500R/S, and the TT version was the 2500S.

Heck... I think I still have a 2500S. In green, no less, with a speakerphone set to match.

Keep the peace(es).

Ive got a working single line 4A. The best speaker phone ever made.

I've successfully connected a 4A to an older single line set without the 82 or 223 adapter blocks. They are extremely difficult to find. It does require cutting the plugs and hard wiring. I only wired it to the line, so you have to take the phone off-hook to dial, then turn on the speakerphone, and then hang up the phone. But it works great, especially for answering calls with the touch of a button.
I have a number of black 4A Precision sets for sale,, and one WE in beige, if anyone is interested.
mm

Hi everyone...
I wanna say how terrific it is that the 4A speakerphone is still so much appreciated for its technical beauty, quality and history! I've had one since the 1980s and its works beautifully. Unfortunately, the mic ON/OFF pedestal fell off my desk, and the light bulb under the housing broke off. Is there any way of obtaining a replacement? I'm also hoping that there will be more posts presented here about this icon of telephone history. Many thanks, Rusty

Well, it isn't really a light bulb. It is an LED which is fairly mainstream. I'd be willing to bet that if you found a GOOD TV/radio repair shop, they might be able to solder a new one in for you. I'm sure that being in NYC, you should be able to find a store front shop that is run by a little old man who is an electronics expert who will do this.

Thanks Ed for lettin me know!

I thought for sure that it would be some obscure Western Electric custom part.

I'll comfirm here when I get that done.
Thanks again!
Rusty

(I'm REPOSING my question here, because I'm not sure if I posted this question in an active section yesterday -- I'm a new member)

I've recently had a problem with my 4A speakerphone. A few years ago up until the present, I would either answer or make a call and after about 4 minutes, the loudspeaker would just turn off suddenly. Then, I would try again, but it would suddenly turn off again but even sooner. Each time I would try again, the sorter the time until it would click off until I couldn't even get a dial tone. If I waited about a half hour, it would work for a while, then turn off in the same shorter pattern.

The unit came with a different power transformer unit than the 85B1 Power unit Its "Precision Components Telephone, INPUT 115V AC 60HZ, OUTPUT: 16V AC 375 mA, MODEL: 0501-0372 PC-2012HD-3

I hope this is enough info (If necessary, I'll list all the components).

I'm really hoping I can get this beautiful technical marvel to work as it should.

Many thanks again for your help so far (about the led lamp, Ed)
Rusty

Has this happened since your LED in the transmitter got broken? If so, chances are that it is causing a short that is loading down the 2012D transformer. It has a thermal cutout in it that will disconnect the power until the transformer cools off. At first it is four minutes, but repeated attempts will shorten this time frame.

I think that once you get the LED replaced, the problem will go away. If you are not able to get it repaired, just clip away the remnants of the broken LED so that the wired connections to the LED are no longer touching and you should be fine. You just won't have an in-use light. Don't do this while it is plugged in. Also, don't do this until you find out if you can get the LED replaced.

Rusty, it looks as if we have the same question going in two different places. It would be best if we focus on one place to keep your questions. Take a look where your other posts are because Arthur has some good information for you there.

Sorry Ed. I first posted the question in the other location but thought perhaps that the section wasn't active, so I posted it here (I just joined and still getting the hang of the place)

In any case, I'm gonna check the transformer with as VOM next, But this problem started years before the led light broke off, so I'm pretty sure it isn't that causing a short.

Hopefully its the transformer. I have a 85B1 Power unit somewhere here, so I will try and find it next.

I suppose I'll continue this question at the other location as you suggested:

https://www.sundance-communications.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?/ubb/get_topic/f/1/t/002503.html

Thanks again for your help.
Rusty