Just finished a cabling job, one of the larger ones I've done. Just shy of 90 drops.

Please provide feedback...and disregard the wallpaper

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Not bad! The only thing I may have done was to leave a bit more slack behind/to the side of the patch panel.

Jeff

Nice!

Centering the ladder would have made your cable falls look nicer plus giving better support. We use a left and right cable lay using management bars especially with higher drop counts.
If your customer likes it and you're proud it nuff said!

Looks good. Definitely wouldn't have dropped the cables down to the patch panels at an angle like that but that's just me

Noticed those pictures were taken with a Bionic. Hurry down to your local Verizon dealer as the Lapdock is on sale for an amazing 49.97. I just picked one up and am thinking about rounding up the rest for to resell.

Definitely neatly done - only one nit to pick:

In the second photo, I wouldn’t have routed the cables directly above the block. It’s going to be a tight squeeze getting mushrooms in there.

The giraffe and bear seem happy with it
enough said
enjoy

I think it looks good....I might have rack mounted the 66 block as well. Siemon makes a frame just for that purpose.

The 66 is actually just a 1-2 month temporary solution while the telco gets the PRI circuit installed.

No need for mushrooms, just going to terminate the bare end of a RJ21X into the 66 for the customer's existing PBX.

The ladder wasn't quite made for this particular rack. Ended up at Fastenal to "craft" a solution using beam clamps to hold the rack plate on. I would've liked to have centered the ladder the metal stud in the wall flubbed it up with the mounting hole being square in the middle of it!

All-in-all, I'm pretty happy with the result and appreciate your guys' input.

It looks nice and neat! :thumb: Maybe could of had a little more slack on cable for 66 block.I sure your customer will be happy with your work !!
My self I prefer to wall mount everything and terminate on a 12A Bix Block for small jobs and use velcro fo the last 10 feet.
https://www.contact-directconnect.com/Picture%20005.jpg

IBDN/CDT Certified for Whats Comming Next ! :thumb:

https://www.linkvoicedata.com/

your link is not working here in Calgary !

5Pm Thursday May31,2012

Its working now...

Looks nice and your a brave sole asking this group to critique it but I'm glad you did as it gives all of us a chance to learn how to do it better.

I actually have a service loop in the 66's bracket. Much rather have ran a large pair count line than cat5 but I went with "what was on the truck" lol

Several years ago I joined the forum and browse weekly but usually as a non-logged in lurker

I'm always looking for a way to improve and I knew posting here would be a great start

Brave indeed.

My suggestion would be to dress the runs down the side of the rack to the panels instead of how they "hang" free.

Looks good, nice job.

D

I don't see any sense in starting a new thread, but here's another one. I didn't realize until after I left the site that the photo I took had the switch's power cord just hanging. I fixed that before I left!

Link

If you are going to cut a hole in the ceiling tile why not put a 3" sleeve also?

By a sleeve I assume you mean EMT with a bushing on a unistrut?

EMT sleeve (pipe) where it penetrates the drop ceiling. Sleeve to be filled with fire-block.

Board should be of fire-rated plywood or painted with fire-retardant paint.

Plywood should be extended up to the ceiling grid so as to be used for an attachment point (sleeve and rack mount wall bracket).

Cabling looks neat, though!

Yes, ampleworks. It must be Cat5e cabling because you are not using Velcro.

Danny_O, I would also add:

"and don't paint over the "Rating Stamp" on the plywood"

Interestingly enough, I've *NEVER* had an AHJ even mention having a fire-rated backboard...this is in both OH and WV. Of course, this would be considered a fairly rural area without the extra things one would expect from somewhere like NYC.

Heck, until only after reading about it on this forum a few months ago I didn't even know it existed.

Really though, what is the whole idea about the backboard being fire-rated when the studs in the wall, carpet, etc. etc. etc. will all go up like Cheech & Chong?

Dunno. Isn't it in the NEC and/or the NFPA? Penetration, fire-block and fire-retardant back-boards are required here to pass an inspection.

Fire-retardant back-board prevents the fire from originating at that location. Yes, it may burn eventually from another source, but it won't allow fire to spread from flaming equipment.

Jeff, this is typical of the NEC or NFPA. The boards that write the codes that we have to follow are populated by members who work for manufacturers of the stuff that is now mandated.

It is all about selling more expensive plywood and/or paint. A $10.00 piece of plywood has now become $100.00. You are absolutely correct; the carpet and furnishings will certainly spread a fire before a dinky little piece of plywood in a back closet.

This is just like the new requirements for AFCIs for nearly all circuits, tamper-resistant receptacles, bonding of conduits used as sleeves, you name it. It is equally-corrupt in the plumbing trade.

Manufacturers hold high positions on all national code boards. AHJs enforce their sales tactics. That's just how it is.

AFCIs GRRRRRRRRR another topic.

I bought ONE can of fire-retardant paint (flat black). Used it/saved it. Now I paint the backboards with regular flat paint and show the inspector the can.

Next project: Rubber stamp that says "Fire Rated Plywood". :rofl:

I don't have to deal with that issue up here, but that sounds like you'd be asking for a whole lot of trouble, Danny... :rolleyes:

What, there aren't any fires in Canada?

What are they going to do? Sample the paint on the backboard? I have DOZENS of photographs of work (not mine) that doesn't meet code which inspectors have passed. I'll use that as blackmail if they ever come after me for using the wrong paint!

And I was only kidding about the rubber-stamp...you should know my sense of humor by now.

But, Danny, YOU will become the EXAMPLE!

Prosecutor: Your Honor, I object to those pictures.

Judge: On what grounds.

Prosecutor: We aren't prosecuting about Bob Bumble, Sam Smith, Larry Lazy, Tom Trunkslammer, or Jack Jones. We're prosecuting Danny.

Judge: Objection upheld, pictures cannot be entered into evidence.

Eh. Bring 'em on.

I met with an electrical code (building) inspector a few months ago to finalize a camera installation I did for a municipality (Police Dept.).

The inspector was blotto. Molar'ed. Drunk-as-a-Skunk. Schnockered. Hammered.

And I was his first stop (10am).

I absolutely believe in using fire stop/caulk when penetrating fire-rated walls and plenum where required but the whole "fire-rated wood" makes as much sense as "boiling ice water"........hrm

Just another sales tactic for jack legs to use against us when performing shoddy work.

Saw one job that passed inspection because the AHJ was too lazy to climb a ladder to see it was red tinted silicone caulking rather than fire stop!!

Got that covered, too. I have pics of the Prosecutor and Judge at the strip club down the street...

I'm not sure if you're just being funny here but that's pretty shady :nono:

Whats it matter who's drunk or stupid or what they've passed in the past???

The reason for the fire retardant board is so that fire originating from one of the electrical components doesn't have time to spread not just to sell fire retardant paint. What are you going to do if something you've installed catches on fire and spreads and kills a few people because you decided to be a cheap ass?

Hmm...you're right. Perhaps I shouldn't use gasoline for thinning the paint, either... :shrug:

Hmm...you're right. Perhaps I shouldn't use gasoline for thinning the paint, either... :toast: