We've never used one, but are considering it. Always thought they were for sissies. If you are strong enough to pull on a rope or tape and get it to move, why bother? Watched some YouTube videos and tuggers don't seem to difficult to set up.

The inertia thing makes sense for less stress on the cable vs yank, yank, yank. The stopping and starting must really be the hardest part on most cable pulls.

There is a local rental shop here that rents out the Porta Systems units and Greenlee. Which one is the easiest idiot-proof unit? I like my fingers.

Can tuggers use Neptco mule tape - like 1800lb 1/2 tape instead of nylon rope?

You are only doing less than 1000' .... don't bother with a tugger. You'll do more damage than good if you don't know what you are doing.


My opinion.

Yeah, but I have that 'tool time' addiction! You are probably correct and with two people pulling the force can be kept pretty constant.

Tuggers are for sparkies, you can pull the hell out of THHN and not bother it. No way can you do that with our stuff. There are actually tuggers for our work but they incorporate tension meters which are absolutely necessary for fiber.

What it comes down to is that it is extremely important to design your conduit run to minimize pulling tension. That means large diameters, minimal bends that are of as large a radius as possible and plenty of lube.

The cable and fiber manufacturers have pulling tension tables. Use more pulling tension and you risk cable damage.

-Hal

Thanks.

I learned today about those 'heat ovens' that you can lay sections of 4" PVC into that heat the plastic and let you make large, sweeping turns vs the usual 90s. Sort of the PVC version of a pipe bender.

Haven't seen anywhere that you can actually purchase wide-turn 90 joints for PVC yet that are pre-made.

yep, any real electrical supply house has or can get them....ask for a "sweep". The laugh around here is the regular 90s are for plumbers.....

I learned today about those 'heat ovens' that you can lay sections of 4" PVC into that heat the plastic and let you make large, sweeping turns vs the usual 90s. Sort of the PVC version of a pipe bender.

They ain't cheap and for a sweep you are going to need two because one isn't long enough, depending on the size of the pipe. Also, probably something that you won't realize is that you have to pressurize the pipe with compressed air otherwise it will collapse when you heat and bend it.

-Hal

Oh thanks for that heads up on that Hal. Pressurize with compressed air; hot plastic ... that has disaster written all over it.

Ken - I asked Graybar if they heard of a PVC 'wide' corner and they said no. Oh wait, you said a .....

-Vance

Ya see, NC, that is the problem, you "asked" ... I have trained so many supply house guys over the last 4+ decades....you tell them what you want ... a good counter man / account rep will call a manufacturer if he / she doesn't know. Why? They learn, they sell, they make money!


And you may need to talk to a electrical dude rather than a data order taker....they use 'em, the data dudes wouldn't know a sweep if it fell on them.

I've used Greenlee Super Tuggers for years in our business. On copper when we were pulling in high count telephone cable (600-3600 pair) and on fiber on 216s, 432s and 864s.

Use it on big stuff, don't bother with it on the small stuff. As Hal said you can do more harm then good.

Sam

We have a greenlee tugger and I have only used it on larger guage copper say 500mcm never with anything low voltage.

The heaters for the pvc you can get the big one and it works good, keep rotating the pipe or you risk burning it. I never used air to keep the pipe from colapsing, just take your time and when I get it layed out in the bend I want a wet rag to help cool it down, keep going over it to keep it's shape till it's solid again.

Vance:

I think if you asked for a sweep elbow, you might have better luck with them. They are very common with most larger supply houses.

I never used air to keep the pipe from collapsing

"Collapse" is probably not the right term. I've had it kink or not maintain it's diameter where the bend is. If you heat it properly that is a real problem. I've heard of some people packing the conduit with sand before heating but that makes it a real PITA to get it hot.

Unless I'm bending small stuff like 1/2 to 1" I automatically pressurize the conduit before heating. All you need is about 10psi. Greenlee makes a plug kit for the purpose and I use a flat tank equipped with a self venting pressure regulator and gauge.

Actually they claim that just plugging the length then the air expanding while heating is sufficient but I've never seen that to be true.

-Hal

OK next time I go by the Graybar counter I'll ask in person vs over the phone. Typically, the guys at the counter who their stuff much more than the inside sales people.

If not, Ebay has them - https://cgi.ebay.com/4-PVC-90-degre...e-80_W0QQitemZ310102019618QQcmdZViewItem

I keep sending emails over to the guy doing the PVC work ... as in ... hint hint!!! ... you know when we finally get there to pull the fiber/copper it will have standard 90s, no innerduct, and no junctions - .

You using sched. 80?

-Hal

That's what they told me. Isn't schedule 80 what they want? Thicker wall, stronger. At least schedule 80 for the corners I would think.

Edit: Oh frack! - - the inner diameter is a lot smaller on schedule 80 ... 3.33" ... so much for putting in 4 1.25" innerducts (tight) ... do I hear 3??

Their pathway runs under paved driveways that giant trucks drive over - you'd think even if they use concrete/encasement that they would want a strong PVC I guess.

Hal, I've heard the plug trick works too and I have tried it but never with good results, always had a few wrinkles in it. Although I will tape the ends of larger diameter pvc, it seems to help hold the heat in a little longer to get a nice smooth bend. Don't have to hurry to make sure you get it bent before it hardens. Never tried sand either. I would think that would be more of a hassle than it's worth.

I asked them 40 vs 80 question in a new thread since I already got the answer on using a tugger, and the subject had changed.